Profiles In Fishing

What does the word "sustainable" mean to you?

I feel the essential characteristic of sustainability is flexibility. We cannot define this ethic with a series of qualifications, but rather as an entire effort towards a goal. If I were to sum up sustainability in a pithy statement it would be "Better for you, better for me, better for our environment." What this doesn't take into account is the constantly changing status of our oceans, new technologies and emerging information and science. My definition of sustainable is always changing.

What is your role in the sustainable management of U.S. Fisheries?

Since I work with the end consumer, my role in sustainable fisheries management is more of a position of influencing market demands. I change my menu as often as necessary to reflect what the fishermen are able to provide. Even if fishermen are not using the absolute best methods, it is important that we support their efforts as they work towards sustainable practices. Often times the move towards sustainable management or methods can add costs for the fishermen. Chefs can help to offset this cost by providing a ready market for a product that has an added ethical value. In the end, it is the consumer who actually provides the investments necessary to create a sustainable future.

Why is your role so important?

People go out to restaurants to get something unique and exciting. Restaurants can provide guests with the great dining experience they demand, while at the same time offering a solution to a problem they may not have known exists. When someone enjoys the sablefish or wahoo they taste at my restaurant, hopefully they will start to ask for those products elsewhere. It is my opportunity to get people hooked on the delicious qualities of sustainable species. I am not asking our guests to give up anything. Rather I am asking them to try something new in hopes that they may find a new favorite. And if after a good experience at my table that person asks for the same sustainable species at the next restaurant, it will be because of the qualities of the fish. I use taste to sell an ethic, and that can be a very powerful tool.