How to Keep Your Silver Sterling

By Deborah Long

In the course of caring for silver objects on display in the home, one recognizes the necessity to do more than simply provide preventive care measures. Objects that have been damaged, mishandled, or have become tarnished often do not accurately reflect the appearance originally intended by the artist or maker. Procedures discussed in this article are for decorative silver objects that are on display and/or in use in the home. They are not appropriate for ethnographic or archeological materials.

While the procedures listed below are sometimes necessary, they should not be undertaken lightly, because permanent damage to an object could result from their misapplication. Consult a conservator in order to assess all the issues relating to the care of the specific object in question.

Examine The Object

The structural integrity of your object is of paramount importance due to the amount of handling required by these procedures. Periodically, it is prudent to examine an item that is still in use to make sure it can safely withstand the stress associated with use. Look for cracks, weak areas, old repairs, and loose or missing parts. Once you have thoroughly examined the structural condition, consider the surface of the object.

When examining the surface, determine if there is an original surface coating. In some cases this is simple. Other coatings, however, may not be so easily seen. An important type of decorative and protective surface often applied to silver alloy objects is patina. A patina is a thin chemically induced layer of relatively stable corrosion on the surface of an object.

Another type of coating sometimes found on silver is a gold layer over part of the object. This coating is variously called parcel gilt, vermeil, or gold wash. This type of surface is extremely thin and very easily damaged or lost. Aggressive cleaning and polishing techniques can cause it to be lost entirely.

If the object is determined to be structurally sound, proceed with caution. Materials and techniques used should be extremely gentle to avoid causing unnecessary deterioration. Avoid the use of commercial polishes, as many contain corrosive chemicals such as ammonia or harsh abrasives that can permanently damage delicate surfaces.

The materials and techniques listed below have been tested by conservators and found to be safe and effective when used in a careful and sensitive manner.

Preparation

Provide a clean, well-ventilated work area for the cleaning process, including a padded work surface, adequate light, and sufficient ventilation to remove fumes. Place a clean piece of cotton flannel, soft muslin or other soft cotton on the table as a work surface. Wear a clean white cotton smock or apron to protect your clothing. Use thin films of clear polyethylene to mask out any nonmetallic elements, such as wooden or ivory handles, to protect them during cleaning.

Cleaning

Remove any loose dirt or dust by dusting lightly with a soft brush. Do not use dusting cloths as they will not reach into small crevices, and can scratch objects if trapped grit is rubbed over surfaces. Be very careful not to scratch the surface of your object.

Old polish residues trapped in recessed areas are a common problem found when cleaning silver. Many commercial polishes contain waxy components that cause the abrasives to be stuck to the surface. These can usually be removed by applying a few drops of dilute detergent solution . Gently agitate with a soft sable paintbrush to help loosen embedded material, then rinse thoroughly with clean cotton swabs dampened in distilled water. Avoid scratching the surface with old polish and accumulated grime. Change swabs often to reduce risk and use a rolling rather than rubbing motion.

In some cases, light tarnish can be removed from silver or copper alloy objects by simply wiping the surface with cotton moistened with diluted detergent solution, then rinsing with clean, distilled water. In order to determine if your silver needs polishing, test clean a small area with detergent solution and examine the results to see if this is necessary. If polishing is not needed, wipe the object gently with pieces of flannel or loose cotton dampened with detergent solution, changing them frequently to prevent surface abrasion. Rinse the surface by wiping it with clean cotton dampened with distilled water and allow the object to dry completely in a warm, dust free environment.

Polishing

If polishing is necessary, mix a small amount of precipitated calcium carbonate (do not substitute ground chalk or whiting as it will scratch) and detergent solution together in a shallow dish. The mixture should be approximately the consistency of cream.

Apply a small amount of polish to the object with a small piece of clean flannel or a wad of loose cotton, rubbing gently in a circular motion. Replace the cotton or flannel often as you work so that you are not merely grinding the removed tarnish and used calcium carbonate back into the surface. A cotton swab may be lightly used to remove tarnish in recesses, although complete removal of tarnish is undesirable.

It takes very little calcium carbonate to polish an object - a common mistake is to use too much. Keep in mind that even the finest polish is an abrasive that works by removing a microscopic layer of silver from the surface of your object. The more often you polish, the faster you will remove surface detail and crispness of design.

Once polishing has been completed, remove residues by rinsing the surface with cotton dipped in clean distilled water. At this point, change the pads on the table and change your gloves so that you are working on a clean surface. Dry the object thoroughly by wiping with a clean, dry, piece of flannel.

If your silver is for purely decorative purposes and you want to display it, you may want to apply a protective coating to keep it from tarnishing too quickly.

Apply a Protective Coating

In the home environment, silver can be protected from water and air borne pollutants with a simple coat of wax. Apply a small amount of microcrystalline wax to a soft clean dry cloth or very soft brush and rub it over the entire surface of the object. Do not apply too much wax. Wait a moment and buff the wax with clean pieces of old silk or nylon stockings. These materials will not leave lint trapped in the wax. Wax has a flat plate-like structure and buffing helps align and compress the plates for a more complete and protective coating. If you accidentally leave unbuffed wax on the surface too long, apply a small amount of fresh wax to soften the dried wax and buff immediately.

To maintain the wax coating, periodically dust the object with a soft natural bristle brush and check for evidence of tarnishing. The wax should provide good protection for approximately one year, depending on the environmental conditions and the amount of handling the object receives. When tarnish is noted, remove the old wax with mineral spirits and reapply as described above. For objects on permanent display, consider having a conservator professionally clean the object and apply a stable organic resin coating.

Safety Issues

When working with solvents, always follow all recommended safety precautions noted on the containers. Mineral spirits are strong, reactive chemicals and their fumes are be harmful to your health if not used as instructed. Always be aware of the location of the nearest fire extinguisher when working with flammable solvents and waxes.

Silver Cleaning Resources:

• Unbleached cotton flannel is available from Testfabrics, Inc.
• Latex gloves are available in many hardware stores and medical supply companies.
• Precipitated calcium carbonate and Renaissance® Wax can be purchased from Conservation Support Systems, Santa Barbara, California, (800) 482-6299.
• Selvyt® buffing cloths and natural bristle buffing brushes are available from jewelers supply companies.