USDA Forest Service Climbing
Advisory for Mt. Shasta
<>Winter
Climbing
Statement Updated January 4th,
2009
The time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from May to July or
August.
In addition, the days are longer and the weather is generally
better.
Winter climbs are best for experienced climbers and are more difficult
and
dangerous due to weather and avalanches. The routes on the north
and east
sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier travel and
route
finding skills are prerequisites. Winter brings cold nighttime
temperatures and the chance of storms with snow levels below the
trailhead. ALWAYS check the weather before you ski or climb.
Weather and avalanche conditions limit search and rescue safety.
Do not
expect to be rescued. Rather, prevent rescues from happening in
the first
place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing
party
should something happen. >
The only
trailhead currently open is Bunny Flat on the south side of Mt. Shasta at 7000’. The road to Bunny Flat is plowed
throughout the
winter, but does close for several days at a time during heavy snowfall
(people
have become trapped on the mountain or at Bunny Flat for days – be
prepared!). Although the other trailheads are closed, you are
welcome to
access the mountain through those areas. Don’t expect the roads
to these trailheads
to be plowed; long approaches in winter of 4-19 miles can be
expected.
Please come by the station to pick up your summit pass, wilderness
permit and
pack-out bags if you plan on going anywhere besides Bunny Flat.
The current conditions are like typical winter climbs and are much more
demanding than during the summer. Expect strong winds above
treeline and
low visibility is common. Winter climbers should have some
avalanche
training and avoid typical avalanche areas like “Avalanche
Gulch”. Always
check the weather forecast and avalanche advisory before climbing.
Climbers on Mt. Shasta have been killed in avalanches. The
more
challenging ridge routes, Casaval and Green Butte/Sargent’s, are
usually the
choice of winter climbers to help lessen their avalanche
exposure. These
areas can still be dangerous though, and are sometimes the starting
zones for
avalanches. On the glacier routes, most of the crevasses will
have snow
bridges of varying strength (we recommend experienced glacier climbers
only).
Because high winds are more frequent in winter months, it is often best
to camp
at or below treeline. Many tents have been destroyed or blown
away and
some climbers have had frostbite on their hands, feet and face from
cold
wind-chill temperatures. You will usually need either skis or
snowshoes
to approach your route and expect to post-hole while climbing.
Because
you will be camping lower and climbing more slowly through the snow,
leave
yourself more time to climb. Get an alpine start (2-3am) and have an early turn around time as the
days are
short. Expect cold temperatures this time of year with wind chill
on the
summit often reaching well below zero (for example, 12/14/08, the wind chill on the summit was
-46F). Proper
equipment, clothing and training are a must. We recommend
that you do
not climb into deteriorating weather as many climbers have become lost,
injured
or died in poor weather. Nature sets its’ own terms and YOU must judge how much risk
you are willing
to accept.
<>Current Conditions (01/04/09):
3 to 5 feet of snow can be
expected above tree line with ridge tops scoured to the rock. We still have some concerns for wind slabs on
the upper mountain, especially on S, SE and E aspects after 36 hours of
loading. Additionally, we have a few weak
storms
moving in this week, which won’t be too big, but will have winds. Weather looks to improve next weekend. Swirling winds on the upper mountain are
common and can load many aspects, so be observant, carry and use the
backcountry
essentials (transceiver, shovel, probe) and be prepared to hunker down
with an
avalanche safe escape route. Avalanche
training is recommended. We also had a climbing fatality on 11/28/08 when a climber fell and was unable to self
arrest,
falling/sliding over 1000 ft. Around 2
feet of snow will be found at the Bunny Flat trailhead and powdery
conditions
will slow your climb. No running water
is available so bring plenty of fuel to melt snow.
>
If any of
this information is new to you, either wait until summer or contact
one of the 3 permitted outfitters on Mt. Shasta.
If
you would like more information, feel free
to come
by the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station
for slide shows, pictures, or to speak
with a ranger and/or front desk personnel.
Tips: Climb early and
descend early! This limits exposure to
inclement weather and allows plenty of time to descend before dark with
the shorter days of fall. Avalanche
training along with a transceiver, shovel and probe are recommended! Get an
alpine start (2-6am) and have an early turn around time around 12 pm. Proper equipment, clothing and
training are a
must. Helmets are recommended and expect rock fall at all times. Mt. Shasta is a 14,000 ft. lightning rod and is
frequently hit
by lightning, so don’t push your luck with building thunderheads. Do not expect to be rescued. Rather,
prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to
handle
rescues within your own climbing party should something happen. Nature
sets
its' own terms and YOU
must judge how
much risk you are willing to accept.
Extra warm gear, like a balaclava, is a good idea as climbers
often
develop superficial frost bite during strong winds.
The wind chill temperature near the summit
this time of year can be well below
zero.
Best
time to climb: The
best time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from late May to mid
July on the
SW side of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is
generally stable. However, this year (2008), the thin snow pack
has made
the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June.
When the snow melts away, you are left with
7000 feet of scree, talus and boulders.
There is NO trail to the summit.
Climbing is much more fun on consolidated snow! The routes
on the
north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier
travel
and route finding skills are prerequisites. Spring and summer can
bring the
chance of thunderstorms.
THE TEN ESSENTIALS- Keep you and your party out of search and
rescue
statistics by using common sense and carrying the following: map,
compass,
sunglasses/sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing,
headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife and a
bivy
sack.
If you choose to climb: Solo climbing is not
recommended!
Traveling with an experienced group is a good idea, and remember do not
split
up the group! Wear a helmet, use common sense and carry the ten
essentials.
The mountain has extreme weather changes. Therefore, it is a good
idea to
set-up a turn around time for you and your party. Most people
find that noon is a good time to turn around to allow
plenty of time
to descend. So, climb early and descend early! If you see
clouds
forming, turn around before there is a whiteout or lightning! Climbers
should
keep an eye to the sky and constantly monitor the weather around them;
additionally it is a must to avoid upper slopes and ridges during any
sort of
storm activity, due to electrical storms and extremem weather!
Climbers should always
be prepared
for very cold temperatures; this includes bringing adequate layers of
clothing
and the ten essentials.
Leave
No Trace:
Please keep the mountain clean! Mt. Shasta’s alpine environment is very fragile.
Be
responsible in packing out all the garbage and waste that you packed in
with
you and your party. Make sure you pack out all the little micro
trash
such as; wrappers, extra food particles, buried anchors for tents,
parachute
chord, matches, cigarettes and any other trash. PLEASE DO NOT BURY FECAL MATTER OR EXTRA FOOD.
This will just make the critters and humans sick! Make sure you
urinate
away and down hill from bivy sites and at least 200’ from water
sources.
The Human Waste Packout Bags, are available at the Mt. Shasta Ranger
Station,
The Fifth Season or at the Bunny Flat trailhead.
We appreciate you helping us take care of
your Mt. Shasta Wilderness!
*In the last 5 years, we have collected over 11 tons of human body
waste
that climbers have carried off The Mountain and down to
trailheads. We
appreciate your participation! *Climb and descend safely!!
"The beauty of wild
places
frequently
becomes their undoing as they attract visitors - leaving the landscape
touched
by human hands and eventually less than wild...
As mountaineers traveling in the wilderness, our minimum charge for
this
privilege is to leave the hills as we found them, with no sign of our
passing.
We must study the places we visit and become sensitive to their
vulnerability, then camp and climb in ways that minimize our impact."-Mountaineering,
The Freedom of the Hills, 6th edition, Mountaineers Press, 1997
Mt. Shasta
Climbing Hotline (530) 926-9613
Mt. Shasta Ranger Station
Shasta-Trinity National Forest, California
USDA Forest Service