Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center
Trail of Time
Location: Trail can be accessed at the
top of the stairs behind the visitor center or across the road from
the second parking lot.
Trail
Profile: Gently sloping trail
Length: 0.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 50 feet
Time: 30 minutes to 1 hour
Difficulty: Easy
Introduction
The Little Ice Age, a period of global cooling, began 3,000 years ago
and ended in the mid-1700s. It left behind the Juneau Icefield and its
adjoining glaciers - including the Mendenhall - as reminders of a colder
time. As the ice slowly relinquishes its hold on the land, it leaves
behind barren land in its wake. This land is slowly coming back to life,
as plants and animals move in to fill the void left behind by the ice.
As you journey down this trail through time, keep your eyes open for
changes the land is going through as it recovers from its recent glaciation.
Step by step, vegetation covers barren areas, and plants systematically
replace each other to build a climax forest, which will dominate the
landscape until the next ice age starts the process again.
# 1 – Glacial
Trimline
Just over 70 years ago, the Mendenhall Glacier rested where you stand.
As you look at the glacier, notice the vegetation on the hillside to
each side of the lake. As the glacier advanced, it stripped the valley
walls of all vegetation much as a giant bulldozer might prepare a yard
for landscaping. This trimline, where light and dark green vegetation
meet, indicates the highest point reached by glacial ice. The new growth,
indicated by the lighter green vegetation, colonized the exposed rock
surface as the glacier receded.
Also visible from here is Nugget Falls. This large waterfall is the
outlet point for Nugget Creek, which channels snowmelt, rainwater, and
glacial melt out of the Nugget Creek watershed and Nugget Glacier.
#2
– Exposed Rock
As the glacier advanced over this area, it rounded and polished any
jagged edges of bedrock over which it flowed. After the ice melted away,
windborne spores of mosses and lichens – the pioneering plants
of succession – spread rapidly into the area. They first took
hold in cracks and fissures, modifying their environment until colonizing
plants, such as fireweed, willow, alder, and lupine, were able to get
a foothold.
#3 – Plant Succession
In
1936, the toe of the glacier rested in this area. Can you even see it
from here anymore? Willow, alder, and young Sitka spruce now populate
this area. As succession continues and the forest matures, cottonwood,
Devil’s club, blueberries and eventually western hemlock will
take up residence.
#4 – Kettle Pond
As the glacier receded, pieces of ice broke off the front and were
partially buried in rock till washed out of the glacier. Because these
pieces of ice were buried and insulated, they melted slower and left
behind steep-sided depressions like the one in front of you. This is
a common feature of post-glacial landscapes, and many kettle ponds provide
important habitat for beavers, birds, and young salmon.
#5 – Post-Glacial Features
Take a look at the moss-covered boulders around you. These rocks are
geologically out of place, or erratic, differing in their geologic content
from the local bedrock. What you are standing on is called a lateral
moraine, which is rock debris that has been deposited by an advancing
glacier along its sides. A glacier acts like a conveyor belt, transporting
and littering debris of all sizes at its terminus. Some of the rocks
around you have been carried more than eight miles from the Mendenhall
Towers, the jagged peaks behind the glacier.
#6 – Ice Limit 1920
As you move further away from the glacier, the vegetation changes noticeably.
Sitka spruce becomes the dominant tree type, and will continue to dominate
the forest here for up to 300 years after the beginning of succession.
Slower growing western hemlock grows well in these shady, dense woods,
and will eventually overtop the spruce. At this point, the forest will
be considered “old growth”.
#7 – CCC shelter
The
Civilian Conservation Corps provided jobs during the economically destitute
times of the 1930s. The CCC completed many public works during this
time, including this shelter. Used by early visitors, this shelter is
located next to the old footpath to the glacier, which includes part
of the path you are hiking today. At that time, it was just a three
minute walk to the toe of the glacier from here!
# 8 – Steep Creek
Steep Creek drops more than 2000 feet from the top of Thunder Mountain
to the valley floor, where it flows placidly along for a short distance
before entering Mendenhall Lake. The creek is fed by rainwater and snowmelt,
and rises dramatically during periods of heavy rain. Once back in the
parking lot, face away from the glacier and look up the ridge to your
left, and you may be able to see the upper creek where it cascades off
of Thunder Mountain.
# 9 – Spawning Salmon
Every
year spawning sockeye and coho salmon find their way from the ocean
into Steep Creek (their natal stream) via Mendenhall River and Mendenhall
Lake. Sockeye, or red, salmon spawn in July and August. Coho, or silver,
salmon spawn in September and October. Spawning activities attract black
bears, eagles, American dippers, Harlequin ducks, and Dolly Varden (a
trout-like fish). Bear sign includes partially eaten salmon, piles of
scat, and tracks. As the salmon exhaust their reserves, they die, and
their decomposing bodies provide nutrients for stream algae and insects
that in turn will become a food source for the young salmon as they
emerge from the gravel in the spring.
#10 - Wildlife
Wildlife accompanies the changing plant communities. Many neo-tropical
migrating songbirds nest in the deglaciated areas near the glacier.
Willow and alder thickets teem with them in the spring. Beavers thrive
in the kettle ponds and devour willow and cottonwood. As the vegetation
continues to change and mature, Sitka black-tailed deer, coyotes, wolverine,
black bear, brown bear, snowshoe hare, and wolves may all move into
the evolving forest.
As you continue to travel through Juneau and the Tongass National Forest,
you will see continuing evidence of glaciation’s effects on Southeast
Alaska. Enjoy your visit!
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