MT. BAKER CLIMBING NOTES 2008
CLIMBING NOTES ARE DONE FOR THE SEASON. SEE YOU SPRING 2009!
Climbing Notes are acquired from comments directly off of the voluntary climbing registers from the returning parties and through verbal communication with climbers. Actual conditions may vary, yet sharing the information helps.
Before climbing, leave all your plans and information with an individual you trust; indicating your time of return, vehicle and license number, where parked and planned route. We also encourage you to fill out the voluntary climbing register at the closest ranger station to your climb. In addition; please remember to sign out, on the register, informing us of your return from your climb.
Reminder: a Northwest
Forest Pass is required at the trailhead.
Leave No Trace: Remember to remove wands from your route. Pack out all your garbage. Use mountain toilets where provided or blue bags (available at ranger stations).
NOTE: Party size limited to 12 members if leaving the Mt. Baker National Recreation Area and entering the Mt. Baker Wilderness from the south side and at all other areas of entry. Backcountry permits are not required for climbs of Mt. Baker.
CONDITIONS ON MOUNT BAKER CAN CHANGE DRASTICALLY WITHOUT WARNING. BE PREPARED.
Mt. Baker 2008
Updates will be posted when information is provided by climbing parties. Use caution on all climbing routes. Please be prepared for extreme weather condition.
NOTE: On the Coleman Route, the glacier begins at 6000 feet just above the Hogsback camp. Please pack out all human waste and other garbage. Thanks and happy climbing.
NOTE: Many parties have been leaving very late in the day, to summit the mountain, which is not a good habit to get into. Due to our heavy snow fall this winter and at the moment it has gone without consequences. Yet please be sure to plan and prepare with care before the summit. -Climbing Ranger (21 July)
NOTE: PLEASE use Blue Bags to pack out human waste. Blue Bags are free and can be acquired at our Sedro-Woolley and Glacier Ranger Offices. –Climbing Ranger
NOTE: Route along Pumice Ridge is very evident and please be attentive and courteous to other climbers and try not to kick rocks or dislodge rocks. Roman Wall is showing some cracks and holes; please be cautious and try to use route in place up Roman Wall to minimize exposure to them. -Climbing Ranger
NOTE: Toilets on Mount Baker, have been removed for the 2008 season. Please use blue bags, available at our service centers, or other pack it out methods.
CLIMBING NOTES ARE DONE FOR THE SEASON. SEE YOU SPRING 2009!
NOTE: On the Coleman Route, the glacier begins at 6000 feet just above the Hogsback camp. Please pack out all human waste and other garbage. Thanks and happy climbing.
NOTE: Many parties have been leaving very late in the day, to summit the mountain, which is not a good habit to get into. Due to our heavy snow fall this winter and at the moment it has gone without consequences. Yet please be sure to plan and prepare with care before the summit. -Climbing Ranger (21 July)
NOTE: PLEASE use Blue Bags to pack out human waste. Blue Bags are free and can be acquired at our Sedro-Woolley and Glacier Ranger Offices. –Climbing Ranger
NOTE: Route along Pumice Ridge is very evident and please be attentive and courteous to other climbers and try not to kick rocks or dislodge rocks. Roman Wall is showing some cracks and holes; please be cautious and try to use route in place up Roman Wall to minimize exposure to them. -Climbing Ranger
NOTE: Toilets on Mount Baker, have been removed for the 2008 season. Please use blue bags, available at our service centers, or other pack it out methods.
09/28/2008 Coleman-Deming
Heliotrope Ridge is in good condition/creek crossing may be high on sunny days during peak temperatures, trekking poles are advised. Snow conditions are, consolidated fresh snow, wet, from 7000 ft. and above. The Coleman-Deming route is in fine condition for this late in the season. However recent snowfall approximately 3-5 inches @ 7000 ft, 8-10 inches above 9,000 ft. has covered many crevasses near the Black Buttes, saddle and Roman Wall. These areas should be evaluated heavily during your travels. Recent snow has also led to crampon balling issues in areas where the underlying layer beneath the new snow is sheet ice. Please use caution and expect balling crampons from 8000 ft. up until new snow is gone or covered. Fall skiers be advised the new snow has covered many newly exposed holes on the Roman Wall as well as ice, use extra caution when skiing from the summit. –Climbing Ranger
09/21/2008 Coleman-Deming
Heliotrope Ridge Trail is in fine condition. The Kulshan Creek water level can be high during or after storm events as well as on hot sunny days. This is the 2nd to last crossing before reaching the glacier overlook and observation rock. At snow level 6400 ft. soft and wet. Snow and ice firm above 8,000 ft. in morning. The route from Hogsback camp is in good condition, however, late season conditions exist. The first push from Hogsback camp is very broken up and predominantly exposed glacial ice. Ice axe and crampons are strongly advised for this section. The bridge over the Bergschrund still goes,. However it has undergone some collapses already. Please evaluate this crossing and cross it early to avoid risks. Furthermore with the past week a boulder the size of a 16 passenger van broke free from the roman nose and rolled roughly 300 yards and stopped just above pumice ridge. The path the boulder took could be seen by the dents down the lookers left of the Roman Wall. The boulder is currently perched on a small bench above pumice ridge and should be considered somewhat unstable. Please use caution through out the Roman Wall area for similar events. Also the upper 200 feet of the Roman Wall is ice now. This section can be avoided by traversing lookers right across the Roman Wall from pumice Ridge and underneath the rock outcropping (called the Roman Eyebrow) Into the top out for the Easton Glacier Route. Also, all toilets have been flown out for the season. All climbers should plan on using Blue Bag Systems or other pack it out methods for all human waste. Thanks and happy climbing. –Climbing Ranger
09/15/2008 Easton Glacier
Rocky creek crossing on Park Butte can be difficult to negotiate on hot days or during storm events, poles are advised. 6400 ft. Snow conditions are soft and wet snow and ice. Railroad Grade to Easton Glacier is in good condition and still very straightforward. However it is late season climbing conditions, now, it is strongly advised to inspect any bridges before blindly crossing them. The final 1,000 ft. of the route is becoming very icy with loose dirt and rocks and a couple tricky crevasses. to negotiate please use caution. -Climbing Ranger
09/15/2008 Squak Glacier
6400 ft. Snow conditions soft and wet snow and ice. The Squak Route is in good condition for this late in the season. The direct route will require some route finding through some areas with very large crevasse’s just before you reach the bottom of the crater rim. From this point you intersect with the Easton Glacier Route. The top 1,000 ft. of the route is becoming very icy with a few crevasses’ to negotiate, please use caution. -Climbing Ranger
09/15/2008 Coleman Deming
Good except for Rocky trail below the Hog’s Back, careful with a multi-day pack on the way down. Roman Wall very icy.
09/14/2008 Coleman Deming
“Hard snow, avalanche debris (large) near Colfax peak.”
09/13/2008 Fisher Chimneys
“Fisher Chimneys in good condition. Summit Pyramid is ok, upper Curtis is wide open and requires a lot of zig-zagging.”
09/10/2008 Ptarmigan Ridge/Table Mtn.
Excellent, snowfields watch your footing, started 12:00 pm head out by 7 pm.
09/09/2008 Coleman-Deming
“Loose ice crust on Roman Wall, windy.”
09/09/2008 Fisher Chimneys
“Curtis Glacier is passable. Toilet at Lake Ann needs better signage.”
09/07/2008 Coleman-Deming
“1)Coleman-great, small snow slide and last part to summit very icy, steep, difficult. 2)Ice fall from Colfax Peak.”
09/07/2008 Easton Glacier
Good route above 7000 feet.
09/07/2008 Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys
Hells highway broken and exposed; some ice on Winnie’s slide. Fabulous Climb
09/06/2008 Coleman-Headwall
Coleman headwall didn’t seem accessible.
09/06/2008 Coleman-Deming
The climbers toilets are closed for the season. Bring blue bags. Good boot path; small snow slide, last part to summit very icy, steep and difficult. Great Weather.
09/01/2008 Park Glacier
“Early winter conditions-trace-2” fresh snow. Travel conditions good-temps 30’s, 20’s at night. Snow softened @ 9:30-10 am.
09/01/2008 Fisher Chimneys
Upper Curtis in good condition, some snow on summit pyramid. A few logs over trail. All else good
08/31/2008 Ptarmigan Ridge
Via the Portals, Park Glacier. 2 inches fresh snow at 5-8000 feet. Travel conditions good. Temp. 30 degrees F. to 20 degrees F at night. Snow softens at 9:30 – 10:00 AM.
08/30/2008 Coleman-Deming
“Coleman route in good condition. All crevasses open.”
08/26/2008 Fisher Chimneys
“Trail good. Saw black bear feeding below lower chimneys.”
08/24/2008 Ruth/Icy
“Both Ruth and Icy were in perfect shape-snow on glaciers made for easy travel and crevasses were obvious. Scramble up Icy was a blast, with a bomber rap station near the top (60m rope is perfect to avoid down climbing the entire slab). Avoid gully beside knoll below Ruth, a path can be found to the left (going down), aim at the vegetation and look for cairns.”
08/24/2008 Challenger via Perfect Pass
“Final bergschrund is gone.”
08/24/2008 Fisher Chimneys
“Fresh snow on summit pyramid. 2-6 inches starting around 6500’. Fisher chimneys clear, ice wall above Winnies Slide.”
08/23/2008 Price Glacier
“Price glacier was in phenomenal shape! 4 inches of adherent snow covering the ice made travel easy on moderate slopes. Some evidence of wet slides from steeper slopes.”
08/23/2008 Coleman Deming
“ Windy.”, “Great turns off west side of Coleman.”, “Did not summit due to weather.”
08/17/2008 Ruth/Icy
“Both Ruth and Icy glaciers in good condition; just a few crevasses opening; almost 100% snow covered still.”
08/17/2008 Fisher Chimneys
“Route in great condition.”
08/24/2008 Easton Glacier
FS RD 12 & 13 are clear and open to Schrieber’s Meadows. Road repair in progress on US FS RD 12, please use caution and drive slowly. Railroad Grade trail is in good condition and clear of any obstructions. Trail may be slick and muddy, as a result of recent precipitation. Snow level is a 6000 feet, snow condition on the Easton and Deming glaciers vary from exposed glacial ice to fresh snow up to 8 inches. Which is becoming wet, heavy and slushy. The climbers camp on the Easton is the best place to pick up the main route to Grant Peak. Route conditions are still in decent shape with 2 precarious crevasse crossings; one at about 7800 feet and another at 9500 feet. Climbers should evaluate these crossings each time they are encountered for their stability. Additionally, recent snowfall has temporarily covered up some open crevasses and holes. Please use caution and be observant for lurking cracks.
08/20/2008 Easton Glacier
4 inches of new snow a 6300 feet.
08/17/2008 Boulder Glacier
Large crevasse at the top of Boulder glacier 9900 feet. NO way around.
08/17/2008 Easton Glacier
Good camping at top of railroad grad. Route has no difficulties outside of route finding, with crevasses melting out.
08/17/2008 Icy Peak
Via Hannegan Pass/Ruth. Both Ruth and Icy Glaciers in good condition; just a few crevasses opening; 100 % snow covered.
08/17/2008 Fisher Chimney
Route in great condition.
08/17/2008 Coleman Deming
“Snow wall right after col has loose snow on top of hard ice. There seemed to be no bonding between the snow and ice under.” “Snow bridges are good. Great route.” Very windy. “Saved 3 tents from oblivion. People need to be more prepared.” “Warm, snow somewhat slushy. Crevasses are opening. A snow-bridge is about to collapse.”
08/16/2008 Easton Glacier
Good overall. Difficult finding boot track on lower glacier. 02:30 departure for a 07:00 summit.
08/16/2008 Coleman-Deming
Glacier Creek Rd is clear to Heliotrope Trailhead. The heliotrope Ridge Trail has been cleared of all windfall and debris. Trail is in great condition with one tricky creek crossing which lies after the cumbers trail but before Harrison Camp. The snow level is 6000 feet; the soft and firm corn is progressing to melt away to the dry glacier and unveiling ice in sections. The Coleman-Deming route is still in good condition. Roping up from the Hogsback is strongly recommended due to the number of crevasses and hard ice exposed on the first pitch of the Route in Route to the Black Buttes. The rest of the route is very straightforward and well traveled and does not visibly cross and exposed crevasses until the Bergschrund at 8500 ft. the Schrund is still in decent condition and approx. 5-8 feet thick and 10-15 feet wide in the safest spot. However, it is showing signs that it is deteriorating rapidly from the recent heat and sun exposure. Once this crossing becomes too risky climbers should traverse lookers left to the Headwall area to find a safer crossing. It will not be a bad idea to use protection while crossing the Schrund. The Roman Wall is in better condition than it has been while climbers have been ascending using one staircase. However ice and holes are exposing themselves on the Roman Well. Please use caution and have fun. -Climbing Ranger
08/16/2008 Coleman Deming
“Water ice on upper Deming Glacier, with 6” slush over it.”
08/16/2008 North Ridge
“Ice bridges still in decent shape; very soft on summit with snow; stick to obvious trail on Roman Wall.” “Not spectacular lots of rock fall debris on lower route.”
08/16/2008 Park Glacier
“Glacier very broken up on both lower and upper sections. Path finding was very tricky and time consuming. We were stopped from summiting @ 9600’ due to crevasse separating wall from Glacier. We were too spent to traverse around. At 1:30am glacier was still soft. When sun hit bridges became scary. We spent 6 1/2 hours up, 2 down, 4 out.”
08/15/2008 Fisher Chimneys
“Snow in color. Bear on glacier.”
08/12/2008 Coleman Deming
“Trail muddy. Glacier soft in early morning. Roman Wall avalanches with midday sun.”
08/11/2008 Coleman Deming
“Perfect Styrofoam snow early, 4”-6” of slush afternoon-windy on top."
08/11/2008 Easton Glacier
Forest Service Roads 12 and 13. Trail Work is in progress. The Rocky Creek crossing will be improved however no bridge will be installed. Snow level is at 6000 feet. 4 inches of new snow on 08/09 above 7000 feet. As of 08/11 cold temps and high winds have kept the new snow day and firm. Expect softer snow with warmer and clear conditions. The Easton Glacier route is generally in good shape. Crevasses are open and prevalent. However they can be avoided with good route finding and safe travel techniques. A crevasse at about 9700 feet. The crater rim has a narrow snow bridge that should be evaluated by each party. Climbers should be reminded that the toilets provided at the camps are not trash cans. They are for human waste and toilet paper only. Putting trash in the toilets not only causes problems when disposing the waste. But also jeopardizes the continuation of this service. –Climbing Ranger
08/11/2008 Easton Glacier
Route is in great shape, a few very large crevasse but great passage.
08/10/2008 Coleman Deming
“Lots of new snow above 7000’ (about a foot). Snowline was around 6400’WET.”
08/06/2008 Coleman Deming
“Sweet. Small crevasses”
08/06/2008 Coleman-Deming
Glacier Creek Road is clear to the Heliotrope Trailhead, pot holes, drive slow. Heliotrope ridge trail is in great condition and creek crossings are manageable. Second to last creek crossing on your way to the glacier overlook is the highest and may require you to get your feet wet. Crossing looked best downstream at this juncture. Snow level is at 6000 feet, snow conditions in the morning are firm, corn, and consolidated spring conditions exist. This moves into soft slush and corn in the afternoon. In areas, the dry glacier ice is exposing itself on the route, please use caution in these newly exposed icy areas, crampons are recommended. The Coleman-Deming route is in good condition as of 08/06/2008. Route from Hogsback and Black Buttes is straight forward and well traveled. The sagging bridge at the Bergschrund around 8500 feet. Is still in good shape but beginning to show the effects of the warm temperature. Route along Pumice Ridge is very evident and please be attentive and courteous to other climbers and try not to kick rocks or dislodge rocks. Roman Wall is showing some cracks and holes; please be cautious and try to use route in place up Roman Wall to minimize exposure to them. -Climbing Ranger
08/04/2008 Coleman Deming
Crevasse open just above 6000 on left of route. Great on ascent - firm snow. Beginning to get slushy on descent.
08/04/2008 North Ridge
Good conditions - take lower/left hand approach. Snow/ice is good.
08/03/2008 Coleman Deming
Fantastic! No issues all the way up Coleman Deming. At 7500 take the left fork - not up to Colfax Peak! Crevasses are Opening.
08/03/2008 North Ridge
Decent conditions, but technical due to snow conditions, crevasses, etc.
08/03/2008 Hannegan Peak
Hannegan Pass Rd is clear to the Trailhead. Potholes do exist, please use caution and drive slow. Trail is clear and in good shape. Trail is clear and in good shape. Trail from Hannegan Pass to Hannegan Peak is also clear, except 2 small snow patches near Hannegan Peak Summit. Snow level is around 6,000 feet, snow conditions firm to soft slushy in the afternoon. The trail system from Hannegan Pass Trailhead to Hannegan Peak is in great condition with no obstructions. The bugs are not at their worst; however they do exist and will peak around mid-late August this year. Mountain flowers are just budding; the next few weeks should be promising for wildflower viewing. –Climbing Ranger
08/03/2008 Ruth Mountain
Hannegan Pass Road is clear to Hannegan Pass road is clear to Hannegan Pass Trail Head. However, potholes exist, take it slow. Hannegan pass trail is in great shape. Hannegan pass to Ruth via Muddy Shoot and ridge is messy through muddy shoot. But Clear with snowfields once you gain the ridge. West Valley approach from Hannegan Pass also looks clear and much less messy vs. muddy shoot. Snow level is at 6,000 feet, the snow conditions are firm to soft spring like conditions. Softer and slushy in the afternoon. Ruth Mtn. still has good snow coverage, however, crevasses are lurking in the area. One large crevasse is exposed under tock outcropping on the Northeast Ridgeline. Route stays to right (climbers right-west) of this crevasse and out from underneath outcropping. Very minimal sun-cupping, climb in good condition, still good skiing or riding for August ;) –Climbing Ranger
08/03/2008 Squak Glacier
Good snow bridges on squak proper (climbers left) until 8300’ then many exposed crevasses. Climber’s right of Roman Wall still in good shape, but with bad run out below.
07/27/2008 Easton Glacier Route
More crevasses than I would have thought. Maybe the time of year. Never got very steep (like slope near Roman Wall) and getting across moats and crevasses was not a problem. Moat at crater rocks and near crater rim at edge of glacier. 6000' camp was somewhat dry but could camp on snow as well. Running water available. Might be better to camp at 7000' for earlier summit. Did this route in the clouds and rain. Never had really very good visibility. Did not take the recommended Mtnrs route. More or less zig-zagged to the west crater rocks. GPS and wands were useful in the clouds. Ended up climbing close to the crater rim - just to the west of it. Did find some more direct routing around icefalls. Took 7 hrs up - pretty good considering the conditions. 4 hrs down. Snow was soft but good for walking - not crampon snow but used them anyway. Wind was minimal - 10-15 mph at most. 10 climbers, 10 summited. Departure: 0350. Summit: 10:50. Arrival at camp: 1530. Good approach trail - all clear. Good signage. Beautiful approach through alpine meadows and along the Railroad Grade moraine.
07/21/2008 Coleman-Deming
Glacier Creek Road is completely clear but potholed please, please drive slow. Trail conditions; Heliotrope Ridge Trail looking much better, with major improvements made to the blow down sections, thank you trail crew. Snow level is at 6000 feet, snow conditions still exist in some areas, use caution when traveling in snow covered rocky terrain. The Coleman Deming Route is fairly straight forward, currently. A good route is in place all the way to the saddle. The Roman Wall is the biggest hazard on the route due to the soft snow conditions due to our recent warm weather. The Roman Wall is very post holed out with lurking holes and rocks. PLEASE USE CAUTION while ascending and descending. The Bergschrund at 8500 feet, is still in good condition however starting to sag. As a side note: Many parties have been leaving very late in the day, which is not a good habit to get into. Due to our heavy snow fall this winter and at the moment it has gone without consequences. Yet please be sure to plan and prepare with care before the summit. -Climbing Ranger
07/21/2008 North Ridge
Road is clear to the trail head, many down trees have been cleared. Snow level is at 6000 feet. Snow conditions are soft and wet. Freezing levels have been over 12000 feet. Snow conditions will deteriorate rapidly after sun exposure. The long stretch of hot weather has made the route finding across the Coleman Glacier more difficult. Snow bridges are weakening and crevasses are widening. Rock fall on the approach to the North Ridge will be prevalent. The ice on this route has been braking in the sun for two weeks. An early start will help off set the high temps and freezing level. However colder temperatures would be ideal. This route and its approach are not at their best; however possibilities do exist for experienced climbers. –Climbing Ranger
07/21/2008 Easton Glacier
Snow on trail. High Camp dry. Crevasses opening up. One snow bridge a 8900 feet about to perish. Great snow conditions on upper Roman wall, foggy. Crevasses opening up.
07/21/2008 Coleman Deming
Approach in good shape, thanks to trail crew! Route is well booted most of the way, crevasses were no big deal.
07/20/2008 Icy Peak
“Traverse to Icy in good shape. Crampons needed. Crevasses no problem.”
07/20/2008 Fisher Chimneys
“Lake Ann Trail 80% snow covered. Route Finding may be required. Lake Ann snow covered-water available around edge. Toilet under snow. Fisher Chimneys completely clear, beautiful. Fresh cougar tracks at Lake Ann near camp sites.”
07/19/2008 Coleman-Deming
Trail crews have started logging out the trail. They will begin construction and installation of a temporary bridge over Grouse Creek on Monday, July 21.
07/18/2008 Easton Glacier
A few open crevasses, START EARLY, snow begins to melt approximately at 11 AM, good to get off Mtn. before then.
07/17/2008 Ruth Mountain
“Good snow for skiing. 2 crevasses have opened up. Trail to Hannegan Pass can be muddy. The snow covered trail can be very hard to follow…Top portion of Hannegan Pass is a hard trail to climb up.”
07/16/2008 Coleman Deming
Forest RD 39 is clear of snow, the bridge remains out at Grouse Creek. Large areas of windfall make the trail difficult to follow in places. Snow level 5000 to 6000 feet, snow conditions are firm in the early morning, softening quickly after solar exposure. This roué is in good shape and has held up well to the recent hot weather. Crevasses are opening and snow bridges should be evaluated carefully. The rock and icefall from Colfay Peak should be given a wide berth. Several piles of human waste were found on the summit. This is not an appropriate place to burry human waste. Please use the free Blue Bags that are provided at the visitor centers in Glacier and in Sedro-Woolley. –Climbing Ranger
07/14/2008 North Ridge
“Good condition, but depends on route. If taking steeper snow ramp, lots of water ice above, steep 60-70 degrees. Several pitches and harder ice farther up. Some parts 80 degrees.”
07/14/2008 Hannegan Pass
Large down tree to Hannegan Camp. Muddy above Hannegan.
07/13/2008 North Ridge
“Good condition-some interesting bergschrund crossings, but not too bad. Used bite screws, 3 pickets, 25M rope.”
07/13/2008 Fisher Chimneys
Trail to Lake Ann 85% snow covered. Lake itself is snow covered. Chimneys snow free with a good foot path and lots of rap rings. Winnies Slide is not icy, nor is the Upper Curtis Glacier. There is one big patch of snow in the summit gully, but the gully is mosly dry. “Winnie’s Slide & Hell’s Highway steeper than last August”
07/13/2008 Ruth Mountain
“Snow below Hannegan Pass makes it difficult to stay on trail. Lots of snow above pass on way to Ruth.”
07/12/2008 Easton Glacier
Some large open crevasses, lots of snow. Bridges over lots of cracks too. Beautiful day, windy on the summit, clear skies.
07/12/2008 Boulder Glacier
Crevasses opening up West of 9800 feet buttress, but still passable East of Buttress looks possible (Did not investigate). Trail is good.
07/12/2008 Coleman-Deming
“Snow bridges in excellent shape. Good boot track. Roman Wall very tracked up. 2nd stream crossing is dangerous.”
07/12/2008 North Ridge
“Good, Ice on cliff is very brittle.”
07/10/2008 Squak Glacier
Much snow, but crevasse on Easton at 8900 feet was a problem.
07/10/2008 Easton Glacier
Much snow crevasse problem at 8900 feet. High winds on summit.
07/09/2008 Coleman-Deming
"Rough trail to Coleman, excellent glacier conditions.”
“Clear and obvious route up Coleman Glacier to pumice ridge a saddle. Moat forming at top of pitch to base of pumice ridge. Overall excellent conditions-lots of snow.”
07/08/2008 Mt. Challenger
Via Easy Pass, Perfect Pass, Challenger Glacier. Snow on Easy Ridge above 4600 feet. Trail to Easy Peak easy to find, no log crossing over Chilliwack River.
07/07/2008 Easton Glacier
Via Railroad Grade, parking 200 yards short of the Trailhead at Shrieber’s Meadow (Rd 13). Trail is still snow covered to rocky creek. Rocky Creek is fully melted out. Switchback gain Railroad Grade is now visible, Railroad Grade to camps is in good shape. Snow level 3500-4500 (depends on aspect). Snow conditions-Soft and slushy sun cupping at lower elevations turning to firm snow fields above Sandy camp. Route from Sandy Camp and Climbers Camp is in good condition with little variation at this point to saddle under Roman Wall. Snow level at 7500-8000 feet is firm with a consistent freeze/thaw cycle over the course of the day. Roman Wall is starting to show a good deal of travel with various climbing party steps. Use caution when descending this section.
07/06/2008 Coleman Deming
A lot of wind fall on trail approach.
07/05/2008 Heliotrope Ridge
FS Rd 39 is clear to the Trail Head. Bridge is still out. The Grouse Creek crossing is also in bad shape, DO NOT trust the snow bridges here. Snow level 4500 feet, conditions are soft, wet and suncupped. Snow covered trail and large areas of blow down trees, make the trail somewhat difficult to follow in some sections. Please stay on the trail to prevent erosion and trail damage.
07/02/2008 Coleman Deming
Trail in Bad shape about above last stream crossing, slushy snow. Snow bridges gone, at 8000 feet need to reroute.
06/30/2008 Coleman Deming Route
Summer route hard to find, winter route is in beautiful condition. Excellent one sketchy crevasse crossing.
06/30/2008 Hannegan Pass/Mt. Ruth
Snowy approach to Hannegan pass, good snow on Mt. Ruth.
06/26/2008 Easton Glacier
Snowy- few open crevasses to about 8000 feet. Poor visibility on morning of 06/26.
06/23/2008 Easton Glacier
Trail to Railroad camp, High Camp and Sandy camp is snow covered. Spring like conditions exist on glacier because of big snow year this winter. Please be cautious of lurking creeks, moats and crevasses still snow covered by snow on your way to sandy camp, especially when traveling unroped. Firm morning snow turning to softer spring corn in afternoon. - Climbing Ranger
06/21/2008 Coleman/Deming Glacier
To Black Buttes camp via Grouse Creek. Soft and wet snow: It has not been freezing at night. Recent avalanches have occurred at 7500 feet – 8500 feet on the North Slopes. No open crevasses between Hogsback Camp and Black Butte Camp. However, precautions should be taken for all glacier travel. Please pack out all garbage. – Climbing Ranger
06/21/2008 Coleman Glacier
Bridge still out, log crossing downstream is manageable at Grouse Creek. Grouse Creek approach to Coleman Glacier is in good shape, great approach.
6/16/08 Coleman-Deming Climbing Ranger Report
Actual Route: Heliotrope to Black Buttes
Trail Conditions: Glacier Creek Road is accessible to 6.5 miles from Hwy 542. The foot bridge (for Grouse Creek) at the start of Heliotrope Ridge trail has collapsed and is unsafe. Snow bridges over the creek are thin and should not be trusted. Climbers may find safe crossings upstream.
Snow Level: 4000 feet
Snow Conditions: Melt, freeze cycle. Avalanche conditions exist, backcountry travelers should be prepared to evaluate these hazards.
Route Conditions, Comments, and Additional Info: Toilets are scheduled to be put in place by early July. Please continue to pack out human waste until this time (blue bags available at Glacier Public Service Center and Sedro-Woolley office). Thank you for your patience, Happy Climbing!
6/15/08 Easton Glacier
Snow about 1 mile out. Route in good condition. About 1.5 foot snow pack from last weekend’s snow fall.(Other reports say “perfect” and “awesome”).
6/14/08 Coleman-Deming
Grouse Creek bridge so-so. Trail easy to follow. Use winter route up and down. Unstable slab at top of Roman Wall in late afternoon from sun. Others from same day say “great” and “sweet”
6/13/08 Easton Glacier
Cloudy but Easton looks to be in good shape. Slush. Made it to 6000 foot-Railroad Grade.
6/9/08 Coleman-Deming A slide on Monday 6/9? set off by one party on the Roman wall caused the party below to get washed down at 200 feet. The whole rope team was affected.One member was partially buried He was dug out and there were no injuries.
06/08/2008 Coleman Glacier
Soft snow, post hole from 4500 feet to saddle, lots of wet snow. Avalanches in afternoon on all aspects, south aspects from 9am on. High avalanche danger. Entire group caught in snow slide 200 feet from summit.
06/07/2008 Coleman Glacier
Good snow on road 2 miles from the Trail Head. Snow above 6000 feet is wet and unstable. No summit low visibility.
06/02/2008 Easton Glacier
2.5 mile hike to Schriebers Meadow Trail Head. Lots of snow from Trail Head to railroad grade 5 feet of snow at 5400 feet along Railroad Grade. Route was difficult to follow. Avoid ice balls on west side. No summit attempted, because of time. Heavy fog at 8200 feet. Everything well filled in, looking great.
06/01/2008 Coleman-Deming
Unsafe crossing of cracked Bridge over Grouse Creek at beginning of Heliotrope trail. Route strait forward with no crevasses open. Also snow shoes or skis are very useful.
05/26/2008 Coleman-Deming
Lots of icefall
05/26/2008 Coleman/Deming Glacier
Warm and wet right to the top. Snow pack is warming quickly. Careful on steeper slopes.
05/25/2008
Glacier is sloppy but snow bridges are in good shape, low crevasses on heliotrope ridge with some route issues. Snow shoes were very helpful.
04/27/2008 Squak Glacier
Snow covered road walk from junction of FS road 12 and 13. Ascended Squak Glacier to 7,400 feet – no summit attempt. Crevasses were closed up and glacier travel was easy and straight forward to that point - lots of snow cover and nothing popping open. Saw where an avalanche had been triggered – 3 foot crown and couple hundred yards wide.
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