Boating

Water is a vital part of life in Southeast Alaska. Aside from the airborne stuff, water is central to many people's livelihoods and lifestyles. Boats are almost as common as autos in the towns of the Tongass National Forest. And boats of preference range from yachts to dinghys, and include everything in between.

Boating "Rules of the Road" are important anywhere. Conditions in some high-traffic areas, such as the Stikine River, have prompted frequent users to develop etiquette guidelines for the safety and boating pleasure of all.

Boating, especially in the cold waters of Alaska, calls for awareness and preparedness. Adverse, rapidly changing weather conditions, limited access to supplies and help, large tidal fluctuations and the presence of bears all combine to make recreation in this area both a rewarding experience and one that necessitates careful planning. The following information is intended to aid in that planning and cover some important aspects which you might not consider at first.

Climate
The Tongass is wet. It rains year round, some months more than others. The yearly average precipitation in Southeast Alaska ranges from 30" around Skagway up to about 160" in the Ketchikan area. About half of our precipitation falls from September through December. Storms predominantly blow out of the southeast. Winds of 30 knots are common with storm winds frequently up to and exceeding 50 knots. The driest months tend to be June through August. Northerly winds usually bring fair weather though they can still blow at 20 knots during these times. Often during these fair weather days, the north winds will pick up in the afternoons and open bodies of water, such as Frederick Sound, can get three foot choppy seas. There are periods when clear, bright days may persist for several weeks in both winter and summer. The air is pure and, as a result, the temperature need not rise much above 50 degrees for it to feel fairly warm and comparable to an early summer day in the lower 48. The winters range from mild to very cold with little or no snowfall to snow depths over 10 feet.

Tides
The tides in Southeast Alaska are subject to very large fluctuations, ranging from -4 to +20 feet. This can make some areas inaccessible at low tide and also create some unexpected hazards such as whirlpools and rapids where narrow passages exist between two larger bodies of water. Therefore, when laying out a trip, it is advisable to consult a tide book. Tide books are available through most local businesses.

Animals
Black bears are fairly abundant on the southern islands, whereas brown bears, or grizzlies, predominantly inhabit the mainland and Admiralty, Baranof and Chichagof Islands in the north. Certain camping and traveling practices will minimize your encounters with these animals and help you avoid trouble. Some people carry firearms when in bear country. If used correctly, twelve gauge shotguns loaded with either 00 buckshot or rifled slugs, and rifles larger than .30-06 usually serve as good insurance against bears. A heavy pistol such as a .357 or .44 magnum is better than nothing, but inferior to a rifle or shotgun. Bear spray repellent is also a popular and effective method of bear protection. The Forest Service has additional information available on bears which you may request or simply pick up at any of the local offices. On occasion, whales and sea lions have also presented a hazard to kayakers. The best policy is simply to admire them from a distance. If you find yourself unexpectedly among them, be careful not to excite or agitate them.

Maps
Having the proper maps will not only be necessary when in the field but will also aid in planning your trip. Quadrangle maps at a 1:250,000 scale may be ordered through the United States Geological Survey. The maps cost $4 each and you should allow 3-4 weeks for delivery. Many of the U.S.G.S. maps can also be purchased at sporting goods and outdoor equipment stores; check at your local stores. Marine charts may also be helpful; they show navigational aids, water depths, and rocks and other hazards in the water. Marine charts are available at many hardware stores. In addition, since your maps will undoubtedly be exposed to the elements, It would be prudent to waterproof them in some way, such as with clear contact paper.

Cabins
Since the weather is frequently inclement in this area you may want to consider reserving one, or possibly several Forest Service recreation cabins along your route. These are small, rustic cabins that must be reserved in advance at a cost ranging from $25 to $45 per night. There are also countless coves and inlets you can spend a night in, although you may have to search a little to find some dry ground.

Supplies
Pay careful attention to what supplies you bring, since much of this area is remote and you will generally be on your own. Furthermore, it would be wise to carry some type of radio with you. Hand held VHF models are preferable. With a radio you may be able to contact either the marine operator, the Coast Guard or commercial fishing vessels. All of these people monitor channel 16. There is also a marine weather forecast on the weather channel.

When packing for your trip, remember the weather in this area. Bring along good rain gear and pack in plastic or waterproof bags if you want to keep your things dry. Bring plenty of warm clothing to protect against hypothermic conditions. We suggest wool or synthetics such as pile because they will continue to keep you warm, even when they get wet. Synthetically filled sleeping bags are also a wise choice. Down bags, though usually warm, become virtually useless when wet.

In recent years the purity of many water sources has become dubious. It would be wise to treat any water you drink. Effective methods include bringing water to a rolling boil for at least one full minute, using commercially available iodine treatments such as "Potable Aqua" or investing in a hand held filter.

Kayaking and Canoeing

People-powered boats - kayaks and canoes - are increasingly popular with residents and visitors alike. The inland waterways offer protection from the sea swell and unsurpassed beauty of the surrounding land forms. Tides, currents, and weather can offer challenges to meet anyone's desire and skill level. A number of opportunities have been mapped for those who want to see the Tongass from sea level.

Most types of kayaks will work well in this area. However, if you intend to fly into a remote location, you will need a folding craft. A good general reference for this region is The Coastal Kayaker by Randel Washburne. It was published in 1983 by Pacific Search Press.

Central Tongass Kayaking (Petersburg/Wrangell/Kake) |
Southern Tongass Kayaking (Ketchikan/Misty Fiords)

Updated March 16, 2001