Date:         Tue, 31 Jul 2007 18:17:21 +0000
Reply-To:     Association for Recorded Sound Discussion List
              <[log in to unmask]>
Sender:       Association for Recorded Sound Discussion List
              <[log in to unmask]>
From:         Don Cox <[log in to unmask]>
Subject:      Re: declicking; also, capturing audio from broken 78s
Comments: To: [log in to unmask]
In-Reply-To:  <a06230900c2d4e5e96979@[172.16.1.34]>
Content-Type: text/plain

On 31/07/07, rodbrown wrote:

> Hi folks,
> 
> I've enjoyed the discussion on declicking soundfiles of digitized 
> vinyl and/or shellac. One technique I think that may have gone 
> unmentioned is the 'Copy Other Channel' tool, available in Sound 
> Forge. 

Yes, Wave Repair has that too. It can be useful


> I've been pleasantly surprised at how often a loud click in 
> one channel has an undamaged near-twin in the opposite channel. Of 
> course this is more useful when the original was a monaural 
> recording, but it has become one of my reasons for making stereo 
> transfers of mono records--there's bound to be plenty of cases where 
> I can borrow undamaged or nearly undamaged signal from the other 
> groove wall.
> 
> Once a click has been zoomed in on and found to be a good candidate 
> (less damaged or click-free audio in one of the two channels), one 
> highlights the click in whichever channel it appears. Then click on 
> the Copy Other Channel button.
> 
> The other nice option is to use the pencil tool to redraw the damaged 
> area, using the click-free channel as a model.
> 
> Now as to reassembling broken 78s, I've used crazy glue with some 
> success. (It's always best to use less of this glue rather than more. 
> Less crazy glue will spare you a lot of mess, and will set much 
> faster.) But I much prefer using 2-inch wide clear packaging tape to 
> put broken 78s back together (long enough to capture their audio).
> 
> The basic recipe:
> 
> * arrange the pieces of the record on a very flat surface, such as a 
> sheet of plate glass
> 
> * hold them together real snug with one hand (a helper may be useful)
> 
> * position and apply tape with the other hand, so that the break has 
> a good area of tape all around it
> 
> * still holding the pieces tight, press the tape down completely
> 
> If the above steps have been done accurately, the opposite side of 
> the record may now be playable. Capture it's audio a.s.a.p. If there 
> are passages where the tonearm sticks in a groove or jumps ahead (and 
> if you have a steady hand) you may be able to use a bird's flight 
> feather (or something gently springy) to restrain the tonearm, or to 
> urge it along.
> 
> Once the audio from this side has been transferred, move your patient 
> back to the plate glass. Try taping up the side just captured 
> _before_ removing the tape from the first procedure. On a good day, 
> the alignment that worked well for side 1 will also be okay for side 
> 2.
> 
> I've never had the slightest problem with stickum from the tape 
> remaining on the surfaces of any record. I normally use Scotch 3M 
> clear Packing Tape, but have had no problem with off-brands either. 
> Certainly, remove all tape sooner than later, assuming the record 
> isn't going into the trash (make back-up copies first).
> 
> Where the process can get tricky is that record pieces don't always 
> fit back together as closely as we need them too. Keep a loupe on 
> hand, to check whether the groove-ends are aligning properly where 
> edges are butted together. If you can't seem to get them to align no 
> matter how tightly you hold the pieces together, a very little bit of 
> strategic filing of the raw edges (using an emery board or similar) 
> can make all the difference.
> 
> I recommend this technique highly, because I've used it to digitize 
> records that were broken in as many as five pieces.
> 
> Microgroove recordings are not entirely beyond hope. The first time I 
> ever reassembled a broken record (temporarily, but long enough) was 
> such a case. Crazy glue was used, rather than tape.
> 
> I put before/after sound files up on my creaky old website, way back 
> around the turn of the century. If earthlink hasn't gotten too tired 
> of my being slow with payments, you may be able to hear these files 
> here:
> 
> http://rodbrown.home.mindspring.com/soundsaver.html
> 
> If the link doesn't work for any reason, interested readers are 
> encouraged to send me a shout. I can email the files to you off-list.
> 
> I hope the above suggestions enable the salvaging of some deserving
> audio.
> 
> Best wishes,
> Rod
> 
> Rod Brown
> 44 Larry Lane
> Oakland, CA   94611
> 
> 510-531-7131
> [log in to unmask]
Regards
-- 
Don Cox
[log in to unmask]