Skip
repetitive navigational links
L-Soft  -  Home of  the  LISTSERV  mailing list  manager LISTSERV(R) 14.5
Skip repetitive navigational links
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (August 2006)Back to main ARSCLIST pageJoin or leave ARSCLISTReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional fontLog in
Date:         Tue, 8 Aug 2006 09:55:38 -0700
Reply-To:     Association for Recorded Sound Discussion List
              <[log in to unmask]>
Sender:       Association for Recorded Sound Discussion List
              <[log in to unmask]>
From:         "Dr. Cheryl Thurber" <[log in to unmask]>
Subject:      Re: LP RECORD STORAGE
Comments: To: Association for Recorded Sound Discussion List <[log in to unmask]>
In-Reply-To:  <[log in to unmask]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

I have read the various posting on record shelves/storage. I have built many record and book shelves. I have the appropriate tools, skills and experience that most record collectors don't possess. I have also seen what many collectors use. I fully understand why the majority use milk crates. Although the disadvantage of crates or cubes is that they need additional support when you go above 3 in height, and make sure they are level or have a slight lean back towards the wall. Aside from the fact that it seems like you have been hiding out in alleys stealing them. A few basic points to keep in mind. The thing must be sturdy. The materials used must be sturdy and the assembly must be solid and sturdy. I prefer solid wood, not particle board, and not plywood. Particle board breaks. Plywood is sturdy but as Steve pointed out it really must be sanded to have smooth edges, and that is not always easy to do, especially by hand, humidity can have an impact so plywood needs to be completely sealed with a finish or paint. I do not trust the quality of cuts you get at a big box hardware store, they are using a rip saw, the teeth are further apart, the cut is rough. In addition the people doing the cutting don't measure correctly, so be sure you stand there next to them and measure again after they finish, and complain. Once they know you want exact they will do a better job. Solid wood is already cut to standard width dimension. Also nailing or screwing into the ends of plywood does not produce a solid secure fastening. Plywood is also heavier than pine or poplar. Metal shelves should again be solid, the ones that are strong enough tend to be rather heavy, and expensive. The various kit metal shelves are not sturdy enough, especially for 78s. Length. Books are heavy, Records are even heavier. The standard for bookshelves is that wider than 30" the shelf will bow, or sag and be weighted down in the middle. I generally prefer 24" max for records. There are various ways of achieving that. Either narrower shelves, or ones with internal ladders or supports. Also pay attention to the side supports. The various kinds of little braces and brackets are not sturdy enough to support a shelf of records. For bookshelves I often use a router to create a side groove that the shelf can be both glued and nailed into, but I don't really think it is as good for records. Within a shelf, it is best to have some additional dividers so that the records, especially 78s don't lean on each other with too much weight. Every 8" to 12" is good. These don't have to be sturdy. The backing of shelves is really less important, the main purpose is keeping the unit square, and also providing a stop so the records don't go back too far. I generally use Masonite, since it is easy to put on and comes in big sizes. That I will have cut to size at the store since I want it to be able to fit in the car. I also use Masonite for my dividers, and for closing the ends when I make ladder type shelves. I first designed ladder type record shelves over 30 years ago. The shelves can be unscrewed from the ladder uprights, and the back removed and the unit can be moved. I may loosen the ladders but I don't take them apart. I have moved several times in the past few years and these have been apart and reassembled many times. I can make them any length, it is best to have 4 or 5 ladder uprights for sturdiness. I have one that is 10 ft long, but most are in the 4 to 8 ft range. These are also very attractive, and look like quality furniture. I won't describe how to make them since the record collectors I have known are not capable of making them themselves, although I was able to do it with a circular saw, a router, and a drill with a guide for a straight hole. It would have been easier with a table saw and drill press. I would suggest finding someone who does enjoy woodworking and trade some other favor with the person to get competently built shelves. Or even hire a carpenter. You have a lot invested in your records, both money and time. You don't want your shelves falling apart. Even if you find something to buy keep in mind the issues I have raised here as you examine the product. Dr. Cheryl Thurber email: [log in to unmask] 410-747-5557


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main ARSCLIST page

LISTSERV.LOC.GOV CataList email list search Powered by LISTSERV email list manager