Abstract
Companion planting is based on the idea that certain plants can benefit
others when planted in near proximity. The scientific and traditional
bases for these plant associations are discussed. A companion planting
chart for common herbs, vegetables, and flowers is provided, as is
a listing of literature resources for traditional companion planting.
An appendix provides history, plant varieties, and planting designs
for the Three Sisters, a traditional Native American companion planting
practice.
Table of Contents
Traditional Companion Planting
Companion planting can be described as the establishment of two or more plant
species in close proximity so that some cultural benefit (pest control,
higher yield, etc.) is derived. The concept embraces a number of strategies
that increase the biodiversity of agroecosystems.
Generally, companion planting is thought of as a small-scale gardening
practice. However, in this discussion the term is applied in its broadest
sense to include applications to commercial horticultural and agronomic
crops. ATTRA has another publication, Intercropping
Principles and Production Practices, that provides
additional information on larger-scale applications.
While companion planting has a long history, the mechanisms of beneficial
plant interaction have not always been well understood. Traditional
recommendations (see summary chart provided as Table
1) used by gardeners have evolved from an interesting combination
of historical observation, horticultural science, and a few unconventional
sources. For example, some of the recommendations for companion planting,
made around the middle of this century, were based on the results
of sensitive crystallization tests (1).
Originally developed by Dr. Ehrenfried Pfeiffer, sensitive crystallization
testing entails the mixing of plant extracts with select salt reagents
like sodium sulfate or copper chloride. The resulting solution is
placed in a controlled environment chamber and allowed to evaporate
slowly. The process results in a precipitate that often takes on beautiful
geometric forms and patterns. The characteristics of the pattern are
studied and interpreted to establish whether the plants are likely
to interact well with each other (1). Sensitive crystallization
appeals to practitioners of Biodynamics™ (BD) and others who
take a more metaphysical approach to nature. Conventional science
is much more skeptical of this process as a means to evaluate plant
associations.
Table 1. COMPANION PLANTING CHART FOR HOME & MARKET GARDENING (compiled from traditional literature on companion planting) |
CROP |
COMPANIONS |
INCOMPATIBLE |
Asparagus |
Tomato,
Parsley, Basil |
|
Beans |
Most Vegetables & Herbs |
|
Beans,
Bush |
Irish
Potato, Cucumber, Corn, Strawberry, Celery, Summer Savory |
Onion |
Beans,
Pole |
Corn,
Summer Savory, Radish |
Onion,
Beets, Kohlrabi, Sunflower |
Cabbage
Family |
Aromatic
Herbs, Celery, Beets, Onion Family, Chamomile, Spinach,
Chard |
Dill,
Strawberries, Pole Beans, Tomato |
Carrots |
English
Pea, Lettuce, Rosemary, Onion Family, Sage, Tomato |
Dill |
Celery |
Onion & Cabbage Families, Tomato, Bush Beans, Nasturtium |
|
Corn |
Irish
Potato, Beans, English Pea, Pumpkin, Cucumber, Squash |
Tomato |
Cucumber |
Beans,
Corn, English Pea, Sunflowers, Radish |
Irish
Potato, Aromatic Herbs |
Eggplant |
Beans,
Marigold |
|
Lettuce |
Carrot,
Radish, Strawberry, Cucumber |
|
Onion
Family |
Beets,
Carrot, Lettuce, Cabbage Family, Summer Savory |
Beans,
English Peas |
Parsley |
Tomato,
Asparagus |
|
Pea,
English |
Carrots,
Radish, Turnip, Cucumber, Corn, Beans |
Onion
Family, Gladiolus, Irish Potato |
Potato,
Irish |
Beans,
Corn, Cabbage Family, Marigolds, Horseradish |
Pumpkin,
Squash, Tomato, Cucumber, Sunflower |
Pumpkins |
Corn,
Marigold |
Irish
Potato |
Radish |
English
Pea, Nasturtium, Lettuce, Cucumber |
Hyssop |
Spinach |
Strawberry,
Faba Bean |
|
Squash |
Nasturtium,
Corn, Marigold |
Irish
Potato |
Tomato |
Onion
Family, Nasturtium, Marigold, Asparagus, Carrot, Parsley,
Cucumber |
Irish
Potato, Fennel, Cabbage Family |
Turnip |
English
Pea |
Irish
Potato |
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The Scientific Foundations for Companion
Planting
While conventional agriculturalists and BD practitioners may disagree
over the validity of sensitive crystallization research, there
is general agreement today on the validity of several mechanisms
that create beneficial plant associations:
Trap Cropping
Sometimes, a neighboring crop may
be selected because it is more attractive to pests and serves to distract
them from the main crop. An excellent example of this is the use of
collards to draw the diamond back moth away from cabbage (2).
Symbiotic Nitrogen Fixation
Legumes—such as peas, beans, and clover—have the ability
to fix atmospheric nitrogen for their own use and for the benefit
of neighboring plants via symbiotic relationship with Rhizobium bacteria.
Forage legumes, for example, are commonly seeded with grasses to reduce
the need for nitrogen fertilizer. Likewise, beans are sometimes interplanted
with corn. On request ATTRA can provide additional information on
Rhizobium inoculation.
Biochemical Pest Suppression
Some plants exude chemicals from roots or aerial parts that suppress
or repel pests and protect neighboring plants. The African marigold,
for example, releases thiopene—a nematode repellent—making
it a good companion for a number of garden crops. The manufacture
and release of certain biochemicals is also a factor in plant antagonism.
Allelochemicals such as juglone—found in black walnut—suppress
the growth of a wide range of other plants, which often creates a
problem in home horticulture. A positive use of plant allelopathy
is the use of mow-killed grain rye as a mulch. The allelochemicals
that leach from rye residue prevent weed germination but do not harm
transplanted tomatoes, broccoli, or many other vegetables.
Physical Spatial Interactions
For example, tall-growing, sun-loving plants may share space with
lower-growing, shade-tolerant species, resulting in higher total yields
from the land. Spatial interaction can also yield pest control benefits.
The diverse canopy resulting when corn is companion-planted with squash
or pumpkins is believed to disorient the adult squash vine borer and
protect the vining crop from this damaging pest. In turn, the presence
of the prickly vines is said to discourage raccoons from ravaging
the sweet corn.
Nurse Cropping
Tall or
dense-canopied plants may protect more vulnerable species through
shading or by providing a windbreak. Nurse crops such as oats have
long been used to help establish alfalfa and other forages by supplanting
the more competitive weeds that would otherwise grow in their place.
In many instances, nurse cropping is simply another form of physical-spatial
interaction.
Beneficial Habitats
Beneficial habitats—sometimes
called refugia—are another type of companion plant interaction
that has drawn considerable attention in recent years. The benefit
is derived when companion plants provide a desirable environment for
beneficial insects and other arthropods—especially those predatory
and parasitic species which help to keep pest populations in check.
Predators include ladybird beetles, lacewings, hover flies, mantids,
robber flies, and non-insects such as spiders and predatory mites.
Parasites include a wide range of fly and wasp species including tachinid
flies, and Trichogramma and ichneumonid wasps. Agroecologists believe
that by developing systems to include habitats that draw and sustain
beneficial insects, the twin objectives of reducing both pest damage
and pesticide use can be attained. For detailed information on establishing
beneficial habitats, request the ATTRA publication Farmscaping to Enhance Biological Control.
Security Through Diversity
A more general
mixing of various crops and varieties provides a degree of security
to the grower. If pests or adverse conditions reduce or destroy a
single crop or cultivar, others remain to produce some level of yield.
Furthermore, the simple mixing of cultivars, as demonstrated with
broccoli in University of California research, can reduce aphid infestation
in a crop (3).
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Options
For System Design
Agronomists use
the term "intercropping" to describe the spatial arrangements of companion
planting systems. Intercropping systems range from mixed intercropping
to large-scale strip intercropping. Mixed intercropping is commonly
seen in traditional gardens where two or more crops are grown together
without a distinct row formation. Strip intercropping is designed
with two or more crops grown together in distinct rows to allow for
mechanical crop production. No-till planting or transplanting into
standing cover crops can be considered another form of intercropping.
For more information on no-till planting, request the ATTRA publication Conservation
Tillage.
Related ATTRA publications
|
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References
1)
Philbrick, Helen and Richard Gregg. 1966. Companion Plants & How
To Use Them. The Devin-Adair Co., Old Greenwich, CT. 113 p.
2) Boucher, Jude. 2000. Setting a Trap. American Vegetable
Grower. January. p. 20, 22.
3)
Daar, S. 1988. Mixing Broccoli Cultivars Reduces Cabbage Aphids. IPM
Practitioner. May. p. 12.
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Resources
Traditional
Companion Planting
Bob Flowerdew's
Complete Book of Companion Gardening. 1995. By Bob Flowerdew.
Kyle Cathie, London, GB. 176 p.
Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful
Gardening, 2nd edition. 1998. By Louise Riotte. Storey Communications,
Pownal, VT. 226 p.
Available for $15 plus $3 p&h from:
Acres USA
P.O. Box 91299
Austin, TX 78709
800-355-5313
512-892-4448 Fax
Companion
Plants and How To Use Them. 1966. By H. Philbrick and R. Gregg.
Devin-Adair Publishers, Old Greenwich, CT. 113 p.
Available
for $9.95 plus $4.50 p&h from:
Bio-Dynamic Farming and Gardening Association, Inc.
Building 1002B, Thoreau Center
The Presidio
P.O. Box 29135
San Francisco, CA 94129-0135
888-516-7797
415-561-7796 Fax
Email: biodynamic@aol.com website: http://www.biodynamics.com
Great Garden
Companions: A Companion-Planting System for a Beautiful, Chemical-Free
Vegetable Garden. 1998. By Sally Jean Cunningham. Rodale
Press, Emmaus, PA. 278 pages.
How To Grow
More Vegetables Than You Ever Thought Possible On Less Land Than You
Can Imagine, 5th edition. 1995. By John Jeavons. Ten Speed Press,
Berkeley, CA. 228 p.
Contains
an extensive companion planting chart.
Available for $16.95 plus $4.50 p&h from:
Bountiful Gardens
18001 Shafer Ranch Rd.
Willits, CA 95490-9626
707-459-6410
J. Howard Garret's
Organic Manual. 1993. By J. Howard Garret. Lantana Publishing
Co., Dallas, TX. 203 p.
A
fine general guide on organic growing that features a brief table
of companion herbs and the pests they repel on page 48. Available
for $18 plus $3 p&h from:
Acres USA
P.O. Box 91299
Austin, TX 78709
800-355-5313
512-892-4448 Fax
Email: info@acresusa.com
Raising With
The Moon: The Complete Guide to Gardening and Living by the Signs
of the Moon. 1993. By Pyle & Reese. Down Home Press, Asheboro,
NC. 147 p.
Contains
both companion planting charts and a listing of insect repellent
plants. Available for $14 plus $3 p&h from:
Acres USA
P.O. Box 91299
Austin, TX 78709
800-355-5313
512-892-4448 Fax
Email: info@acresusa.com
Rodale's Successful
Organic Gardening: Companion Planting. 1994. By McClure and Roth.
Rodale Press, Emmaus, PA. 160 p.
Available
for $14.95 plus $4.50 p&h from:
Bountiful Gardens
18001 Shafer Ranch Rd.
Willits, CA 95490-9626
707-459-6410
Roses Love
Garlic: Companion Planting and Other Secrets of Flowers. 1998.
By Louise Riotte. Storey Communications, Pownal, VT. 240 p.
Provides
a nice literature review of research to that time on intercropping,
highlighting the multitude of factors causing variability in results.
Multiple Cropping.
1976. ASA Special Publication No. 27. American Society of Agronomy,
677 So. Segoe Rd., Madison, WI. 378 p.
"Strip intercropping
for biological control." 1993. By Joel Grossman and William Quarles.
The IPM Practitioner. April. p. 1-11.
An excellent
synopsis of intercropping. The IPM Practitioner, published 10 times
per year, is a benefit of membership in the Bio-Integral Resource
Center (BIRC). Annual membership for individuals costs $35. Contact:
BIRC
P.O. Box 7414
Berkeley, CA 94707
510-524-2567
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An Appendix to Companion Planting:
Basic Concepts & Resouces—Ancient Companions
By Mardi Dodson
Contents
Introduction
For centuries,
many Native American tribes throughout North America have cultivated
corn, beans, and squash. The term "Three Sisters" was primarily used
by the Iroquois who live in the Northeastern United States and Canada.
These crops were considered to be special gifts from Great Spirit
and were believed to be protected by the Three Sisters—spirits collectively
called the De-o-ha-ko, meaning "our sustainers" or "those who support
us" (1).
The Legend of the Three Sisters
The term “Three Sisters” emerged from the Iroquois creation myth. It was said that the earth began when “Sky Woman” who lived in the upper world peered through a hole in the sky and fell through to an endless sea. The animals saw her coming, so they took the soil from the bottom of the sea and spread it onto the back of a giant turtle to provide a safe place for her to land. This “Turtle Island” is now what we call North America.
Sky woman had become pregnant before she fell. When she landed, she gave birth to a daughter. When the daughter grew into a young woman, she also became pregnant (by the West wind). She died while giving birth to twin boys. Sky Woman buried her daughter in the “new earth.” From her grave grew three sacred plants—corn, beans, and squash. These plants provided food for her sons, and later, for all of humanity. These special gifts ensured the survival of the Iroquois people. (2) |
This ancient style of companion planting has played a key role in
the survival of all people in North America. Grown together these
crops are able to thrive and provide high-yield, high-quality crops
with a minimal environmental impact. Corn, beans, and squash have
a unique symbiotic relationship in a Native American garden. Corn
offers a structure for the beans to climb. The beans, in turn, help
to replenish the soil with nutrients. And the large leaves of squash
and pumpkin vines provide living mulch that conserves water and provides
weed control.
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Corn
Corn is considered
the most important of all Native American crops. Originating in South
America and Mexico, corn was introduced during the Mississippian Period
(600 A.D. to 1450 A.D.) to North American tribes via an intricate
series of trade networks. Corn, beans, and squash combine to create
a nearly perfect meal loaded with essential vitamins and minerals (2). In addition to its nutritional values, all Native
American tribes that grew corn considered it a sacred and spiritually
valuable plant.
Varieties
Choosing the right
varieties of corn is essential to the success of a Three Sisters garden.
The tall, sturdy heirloom varieties work best because they are most
capable of supporting the beans. There are a number of Native American
heirloom corn varieties to choose from. Traditionally, most of the
corn grown by Native Americans is dry field corn, which is used in
flour production. Dry field corn is harvested late in the season when
the ears have dried on the stalk.
Dry field corn is divided into three categories, dent, flint,
and flour corns. Dent corns are adapted best to the Southeast
and the Midwest. Dent corn has a distinctive dimple-like dent on top
of the kernel when it is fully dried. A dent corn that grows well
most anywhere in the United States is the Cherokee Blue and
White of the Southeast. Reid's Yellow Dent is also widely adapted. Bloody Butcher produces blood-red
ears of corn on stalks that can reach from 10 to 12 feet (2, 3).
Flint corn grows best in the northern plains region. The
kernels of flint corn do not shrink when they are dry. A popular flint
corn is Indian Ornamental with colors ranging from
purple to yellow. Two popular flint corn varieties are Fiesta and Little Jewels. Little Jewels is a unique, "mini" ornamental with four-inch-long, multi-colored
ears and purple husks (3).
Flour corns usually have thinner-shelled kernels filled with
soft white starch. Flour corns were developed in the arid Southwest.
They are less likely to succeed in cooler northern regions with short
growing seasons and in moist, humid areas where they are susceptible
to a fatal rust disease. Hopi Pink is a short, drought-resistant
corn, with kernels that range in color from cranberry to light pink.
This variety has plump, thin-shelled kernels that grind easily into
fine flour. A flour corn that works well in northern gardens is Mandan
Bride. This variety is also drought-tolerant, with red, blue,
yellow, pink, and purple spotted kernels (3).
Corn can be harvested earlier in the season when it is still "green
corn." Green corn is harvested when the corn is still in the "milk" stage, when the kernels are at their sweetest and can be eaten fresh.
Varieties that are sweet when young are Blue Clarage, Bloody Butcher, and Black Mexican/Iroquois.
Flour corns are usually not eaten in the green corn stage. Two exceptions
to this rule are Anasazi and Mandan Red. (3). See Table 1.
Table
1: Colorful Corn Varieties |
Variety |
Type |
Color |
Can
Be
Eaten Fresh |
Comments |
Anasazi |
Flour |
Multi |
Yes |
Ancient
Southwestern variety, drought-tolerant |
Beasley's
Red Dent |
Dent |
Red |
|
Heirloom
from Indiana |
Black Mexican/Iroquois |
Sweet |
Blue-Black |
Yes |
Smaller
variety from the Northeast |
Black Aztec |
Sweet |
Blue,
Black, Purple |
Yes |
Originated
from southern Mexico |
Bloody Butcher |
Dent |
Red |
Yes |
Northeastern
United States, Virginia area |
Blue Clarage |
Dent |
Blue |
Yes |
Ohio/West
Virginia |
Bronze-Orange |
Sweet |
Bronze-Orange |
Yes |
Selected
by Dr. Alan Kapuler |
Cherokee
Blue & White |
Dent |
Blue
and White |
Yes |
Grown throughout
North America |
Cherokee
White |
Flour |
White |
|
Grows 12-15
ft. tall |
Fiesta |
Flint |
Multi |
|
Developed
in New Hampshire |
Hopi Pink |
Flour |
Pink |
|
Short, drought-tolerant,
Southwestern variety |
Hickory
King |
Flour |
Yellow |
|
12 ft. tall
heirloom |
Indian Ornamental |
Flint |
Multi |
|
Widely grown
by North American Indians |
Little Jewels |
Flint |
Multi |
|
4-inch long
corn developed in New Hampshire |
Mandan Bride |
Flour |
Multi |
|
Originated
from Mandan tribe |
Mandan Red |
Flour |
Reddish-Black |
Yes |
Developed
in Washington |
Oaxaca Green |
Dent |
Green |
|
Southern
Mexico, makes green flour |
Rainbow
Inca |
Sweet |
Multi |
Yes |
Developed
by Dr. Alan Kapuler |
Rainbow
Indian |
Flour |
Multi |
|
Developed
by Dr. Alan Kapuler |
Texas Honey
June |
Sweet |
Yellow |
Yes |
Heirloom,
sturdy 7-8 ft. stalks |
Tuscadorea/Iroquois
White |
Flour |
White |
|
Tall, Iroquois
variety |
*Adapted
from Amazing Maize! Cultivate Colorful Corns by Eric Rosenthal (3). |
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Beans
Beans provide
a high-quality protein food source that combines well nutritionally
with corn. Beans also play a valuable role in the Three Sisters garden.
Through a symbiotic relationship with rhizobium bacteria, beans help
to take nitrogen from the air and convert it into a usable form for
next year's crop.
Varieties
Pole beans are
best adapted to directly climb the corn stalk as opposed to sending
runners across the ground. The Scarlet Runner variety
is a popular heirloom pole bean that is famous for its large clusters
of bright red flowers. Genuine Cornfield consistently
produces in the heat of Southern summers. True Cranberry,
a dark red bean with a meaty texture and a nutty chestnut-like flavor,
also performs well in the South and in the Northeast. Cornfield,
unrelated to Genuine Cornfield, does well in the
Pacific Northwest because it matures before the fall rains come. A
favorite in the arid Southwest is Hopi Purple, a
purple bean with black crescent moon stripes (2).
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Squash
Growing low to
the ground, squash and pumpkin serve as living mulch. The large leaves
block out much of the sunlight, thus reducing weed seed germination.
Allelopathy may be an additional factor in weed suppression (4).
(Allelopathy refers to chemical secretions from a plant which have
adverse or phytotoxic effects on some weed species).
Varieties
Most any variety
of squash will work in a Three Sisters garden. In addition to the
contemporary hybrid varieties, there are still some traditional varieties
available. In the Northeast, the Penobscot and Abenaki still grow Long Pie (a.k.a. Indian or Golden
Oblong) pumpkin. This pumpkin looks like a fat zucchini with
the texture of a pumpkin. It has a long storage life and usually doesn't
turn orange until after it is harvested. A disease-resistant variety
suited for the Southeast is the Connecticut Field.
This very vigorous Native American heirloom yields large, bright orange
pumpkins. Mayo Blusher is a very sweet, pale gray
pumpkin that blushes pink when ripe. Cushaw is a
gourd-like squash that has been grown in the Southwest by the Pueblo
Indians for storage containers since pre-Columbian times. Other varieties
of squash also grow well in the Southwest depending on the amount
of moisture available (2).
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Cultivation and Planting Designs
Figure 1: Circular Wampanoag Garden
Drawing by Mardi Dodson
Concept taken from Native American Gardening
by Michael J. Caduto and Joseph Bruchac |
Planting designs
and cultivation practices vary according to climatic region. Garden
styles were developed mainly out of practical considerations, such
as moisture availability, climate, and the length of the growing season.
The Wampanoag garden style works well east of the Mississippi. Hidatsa
gardens were developed to thrive in the climate of the northern Plains,
while the Zuni waffle garden was designed to conserve water in the
arid Southwestern climate.
Wampanoag
Three Sisters Garden
It
was the Wampanoag gardens that enabled the early settlers of Jamestown
to survive and thrive in the New World. Squanto was a Wampanoag who "taught the newcomers to plant maize in little hills and fertilize
each mound with an alewife, a species of fish" (5).
With this efficient and intensive gardening style, each family could
sustain their needs on about one acre of land. Many of the tribes
of the Northeast, including the Iroquois, used the Wampanoag garden
design. Planted without plowing or tilling, the traditional Wampanoag
garden includes corn, beans, squash, and sunflowers. The corn and
beans are planted in mounds, with squash planted between the mounds.
Corn is planted six inches apart in the flat top of the mound. Beans are planted halfway down the slopes on the sides of the mound.
Figure 2: Wampanoag Corn and Bean Mound
Drawing by Mardi Dodson
Concept taken from Native American Gardening
by Michael J. Caduto and Joseph Bruchac |
The sunflowers are planted along the north edge of the garden, so
that they do not cast a shadow on the other crops (see Figure
1). When
the sunflowers have bloomed and the squash and beans have flowered,
the Wampanoag Three Sisters garden becomes a stunning cluster of red,
yellow, and white flowers against a textured backdrop of shimmering
greens.
First, the raised corn and bean mounds must be constructed. These
small mounds are laid out in rows with 4 feet between the centers of the mounds (see Figure 1). Each mound is
about 4 inches high, with a wide base (about 18 inches in diameter)
that narrows to a flattened top (about 10 inches across). To conserve
moisture, a depression with a lip may be formed at the top of each
mound (6). The finished mounds have a remarkable
resemblance to miniature moon craters.
When
the mounds are ready, plant four corn seeds about 6 inches apart and
3 inches deep in the top of each mound. Once the corn has grown to
a height of 4 inches or more, plant four beans seeds halfway down
the slopes on the sides of each mound (see Figure
2). Allow the bean vines to entwine themselves around the cornstalks
for support. The bean vines may be pruned if they get too aggressive (6).
Figure 3: Wampanoag Squash Mound
Drawing by Mardi Dodson
Concept taken from Native American Gardening
by Michael J. Caduto and Joseph Bruchac |
Squash seedlings are planted at the same time as the beans. Construct
rounded mounds 3 inches high and about 1 foot across at the base.
The squash mounds are staggered between the mounds of corn
and beans (see Figure 1). Traditionally, four
seedlings are planted in the top of each mound.
The
seedlings are arranged to represent each of the four sacred directions
(see Figure 3). Both winter and summer varieties
are planted, including pumpkins, acorn squash,
and summer crookneck squash (6). Sunflower seeds
are planted at the same time as the corn. The smaller-flowering common
sunflower, Helianthus annus, is traditionally grown in a
Wampanoag Three Sisters garden. The sunflower mounds are located at
the north edge of the garden (see Figure 1).
The mounds are spaced about three feet apart from center, with three
seeds planted (one seed per hole) atop each mound. The sunflowers
seeds are traditionally harvested after the first frost (6).
Hidatsa
Gardens
Figure 4: Hidatsa Garden Design
Drawing by Mardi Dodson
Concept taken from Native American Gardening
by Michael J. Caduto and Joseph Bruchac |
In
the northern plains, the Hidatsa, Mandan, and Arikara peoples gardened
along the floodplain of the Missouri River in what is now called North
Dakota. Most of the tribes in this region used the Hidatsa garden
design (see Figure 4).
Hidatsa gardens are designed to have alternating, staggered rows of
corn and beans, with sunflowers growing along the north edge of the
garden. Squash is planted after every fourth row of corn and beans
and around the east, south, and west edges of the garden (6).
Sunflowers are planted as soon as the threat of frost has passed.
As in the Wampanoag garden, three sunflower seeds are planted in small
mounds 3 feet apart along the north edge of the garden. The Hidatsa
garden differs from the Wampanoag garden when it comes to seed arrangement—all
three seeds are planted in one hole. Hidatsa varieties of sunflower
produce black, red, white, and striped seeds (6).
Figure 5: Hidatsa Squash Mound
Drawing by Mardi Dodson
Concept taken from Native American Gardening
by Michael J. Caduto and Joseph Bruchac |
Plant squash indoors in peat pots or seed flats when the sunflowers
are planted in the garden. Before planting in the garden, prepare
the squash mounds (about 15 inches across at the base), with 4 feet
between the centers of the mounds. The squash mounds are located along
the east, west, and south edges of the garden in alignment with the
rows of beans (see Figure 4). Squash seedlings
are usually transplanted when they are about 4 inches tall and have
put on their first set of true leaves (about two weeks after the corn
is planted). To protect them from the heavy spring rains, four seedlings
are planted on the sides of the mound in sets of two, 12 inches apart
(see Figure 5) (6).
Bean seeds are planted on the south-facing slope of the mound. One seed is planted per hole, with a total of six seeds planted in each mound.
Figure 6: Hidatsa Bean Mound
Drawing by Mardi Dodson
Concept taken from Native American Gardening
by Michael J. Caduto and Joseph Bruchac |
In
the Hidatsa garden, there are usually four corn mounds per row
of corn. Note that the rows of corn are in alignment but are
staggered in comparison to the beans (see Figure
4).
Hidatsa corn mounds are constructed in the same way as the Wampanoag
corn and beans mound. The differences are that only corn is
planted in these mounds and eight seeds, instead of four, are
planted in the top of each mound (see Figure
7 ).
Growing corn together in bunches offers extra support and protection
from wind and rain damage.
Hidatsa
flint corn is planted in May in North Dakota when the leaves of the
Gooseberry shrubs have emerged and fully formed. Corn is planted a
week or two after the sunflowers have been planted. This flint corn
is a semiarid variety with a growing season of about 70 days. It is
advisable to research which corn variety works best for your zone
and climatic conditions (7). Beans are planted at
the same time as corn. In a Hidatsa garden, beans are planted separately
from the corn in their own mounds. The bean mounds are located between
the rows of corn in a staggered, alternating pattern (see Figure
4). The mounds are rounded ovals, about 4 inches tall by 7 inches
wide by 14 inches long. Traditionally, two people worked together
to plant beans. The first person made six holes in the south-facing
slope of the bean mound.
In a Hidatsa garden, eight seeds are planted atop each mound.
Figure 7: Hidatsa Corn Mound
Drawing by Mardi Dodson
Concept taken from Native American Gardening
by Michael J. Caduto and Joseph Bruchac |
This
is done in one swift motion by thrusting both hands into the soil
with the thumb and first two fingers extended to make two sets
of holes spaced 6 inches apart (see Figure
6).
The second person follows behind and plants one seed in each hole.
A total of six seeds are planted in each bean mound (7).
Zuni
Waffle Garden
The
Zuni live in the Four Corners area of the Southwestern United States.
This arid climate at altitudes over 7,000 feet makes gardening a special
challenge. The Wampanoag and Hidatsa garden designs use raised mounds
to keep the root systems from being waterlogged. In contrast, the
focus of this garden is water conservation. The waffles are
about 12 feet by 12 feet. Each individual square is indented and surrounded
by a high rim. In each square, a single crop or combinations of crops
may be planted (see Figure 8).
This garden design will work anywhere in the country where dry summer
conditions are experienced.
Figure 8: Zuni Waffle Garden
Drawing by Mardi Dodson |
Traditionally,
the crops are planted intensively with five to eight corn seeds in
each hole to create clumps of corn similar to those in the Hidatsa
garden. Corn seeds are planted 4-8 inches deep in light sandy soils
and about 4 inches deep or less in heavier clay soil. Beans and squash
have the same planting depths and spacing requirements as corn (8).
The same number of beans (4-8 seeds) are planted around each clump
of corn, one seed per hole. Only one or two squash plantings (4-8
seeds in each hole) are added to each waffle (see Figure
8) (3). As with the other two designs, sunflowers
may also be planted along the edges of the Zuni Waffle garden. Helianthus
maximilianii, a small sunflower with flower heads about 3 inches
wide, is most commonly grown in the Southwest (9).
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Summary
Native
American tribes of North America have made enormous contributions
to the foods we eat today. The dynamic trio known as the Three
Sisters not only thrive when they are planted together, they
offer a well- balanced, nutritious meal. Over the centuries, many
plant varieties and gardening styles were developed for each major
climatic region. The Wampanoag (Northeast and South), Hidatsa (Plains),
and Zuni waffle garden (Southwest) offer a range of gardening styles
to accommodate most growing conditions found in North America.
Corn, beans, and squash have a unique symbiotic relationship in a
Native American garden. Corn offers a structure for the beans to climb.
The beans, in turn, help to replenish the soil with nutrients. And
the large leaves of squash and pumpkin vines provide living mulch
that conserves water and provides weed control. This ancient style
of companion planting has played a key role in the survival of all
people in North America. Grown together these crops are able to thrive
and provide high-yield, high-quality crops with a minimal environmental
impact.
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References
-
Eames-Sheavly,
Marcia. No date. The Three Sisters: Exploring an Iroquois Garden.
Cornell University Cooperative Extension. p. 7.
-
Erney, Diana. 1996. Long live the Three Sisters.
Organic Gardening. November. p. 37-40.
-
Rosenthal, Eric. 1993. Amazing maize! Cultivate
colorful corns. Organic Gardening. March. p. 30-35.
-
Fujiyoshi,
Phillip. 1998. Mechanisms of Weed Suppression By Squash (Cucurbita
spp.) Intercropped in Corn (Zea mays L.). Dissertation University
of California Santa Cruz.
-
Gabarino,
Merwin S. and Sasso, Robert F. 1994. Native American Heritage. Waveland
Press, Prospect Heights, Illinois. p. 308
-
Caduto,
Michael J. and Burchac, Joseph. 1996. Native American Gardening.
Fulcrum Publishing, Golden, Colorado. p. 70-93.
-
Wilson,
Gilbert L. 1917. Agriculture of the Hidatsa Indians. Minnesota Historical
Society Press, St. Paul, Minnesota. 129 p.
-
Talavaya
Center. No date. Talavaya Seed and Planting Manual. Espanola, New
Mexico. p. 5-11.
-
Buchanan,
Carol. 1997. Brother Crow, Sister Corn. Ten Speed Press, Berkeley,
California. 119 p.
By George
Kuepper & Mardi Dodson
NCAT Agriculture Specialist & Project Intern
July 2001
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