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Weather-stripping and Caulking
Even a well-insulated home can lose as much as 30 percent of its heat
through small cracks around door and window jambs, thresholds, and frames.
Weather-stripping and caulking will prevent this waste of your insulation
dollars and make your home more comfortable.
NOTE: For more information on "house tightening" and indoor
air pollutants refer to BPA's booklet titled "Home Weatherization
& Indoor Air Pollutants." To obtain copies of these write:
Publications Supply
Bonneville Power Administration
PO. Box 3621
Portland, OR 97208
Weather-Stripping Windows
Window weather-stripping is available either in kits designed for the size
and type of window or by the running foot. If you buy it by the foot,
measure the distance around the moving parts of the window to find out how
much you'll need. Add a little extra for waste.
To Weather-Strip Your Windows, You'll Need:
Weather-Stripping Materials:
- Enough thin spring metal, rolled vinyl, or vinyl bulb weather-stripping
with metal backing or polypropylene replacement pile (Fig. 7.1) to be
applied to all the moving parts of your windows. Window weather-stripping
should have an expected life of at least 6 years.
Tools and Equipment:
- Hammer and small nails; or staple gun and staples; or screwdriver and screws
- Screwdriver and/or coarse-grained sandpaper for cleaning window "channels"
- Tin snips or scissors
- Tape measure
Weather-stripping should he applied to all moving (operable) parts of door,
or windows: jambs, sash, etc. Fig. 7.2 shows where to weather-strip for
common window types.
Before installing weather-stripping, check to make sure the sash or moving
parts of the window aren't so deteriorated that they won't hold the nails
used to install it.
All surfaces should be clean and dry. With scissors, cut a length of
weather-stripping to fit the jamb.
Thin spring metal usually comes with brad nails and is pre-punched for
nailing. Open the window and slide the weather-stripping into place between
the sash and window jamb or along sash rails where shown in Fig. 7.2. As
much as possible, install the weather-stripping in one continuous strip.
Fit tightly together at corners. If the strips don't slide in easily, clean
and sand the channels with a screwdriver and sandpaper until they do. Nail
the strips into place. For double hung windows, fit the spring metal around
the pulleys, as shown in Fig. 7.4. Do not cover the pulleys.
Rolled vinyl is nailed to the outside of the window at the places shown in
Fig. 7.2. Nail the aluminum backing to the jamb and sash. Fit successive
strips tightly together at corners. With some "bulb"-type
weather-stripping, you may cut a "V" notch in the aluminum
backing, enabling you to make a bend at the corner using a continuous strip
of material.
The vinyl should compress lightly against the sash. If it fits too tightly,
the weather-stripping will wear out quickly.
Rolled vinyl weather-stripping is visible when installed. You may paint
over the gasket, but don't paint the vinyl. Paint will harden the vinyl and
reduce its effectiveness against infiltration.
Weather-Stripping Doors
To weather-strip doors, you will need some extra tools and materials in
addition to those listed for windows:
- Enough interlocking metal weather-stripping (Fig. 7.5), rolled vinyl
weather-stripping with prepunched aluminum backing (Fig. 7.6), or 2-piece
magnetic "bellows"-type weather-stripping (Fig. 7.7) to cover
door top and sides.
- For the door bottom, use either a door shoe with a vinyl or neoprene
gasket insert (Fig. 7.8), or an automatic door bottom closure-type
weather-stripping. If you use an automatic door bottom closure for the
front door, use the concealed type, which has a neoprene sealer and a small
metal strike plate that fastens to the jamb at the point of contact. On
doors which are used less frequently, install surface-mounted automatic
door closures with a vinyl sealer and metal strike plate.
- If the door threshold is so worn as to make weather-stripping
ineffective, the threshold can be replaced. Purchase an aluminum or wood
threshold with a vinyl or rubber gasket which serves as weather-stripping
(Fig. 7.9).
Tools and Equipment
In addition to the tools listed for window weather-stripping, you will need:
- A circular power saw, if you must cut the door bottom to allow clearance to fit the weather-stripping
- Metal screws for installing thresholds
Install rolled vinyl weather-stripping by nailing the aluminum gasket to
the door top and sides every 2 inches. (Nails are usually included with the
weather-stripping.) Measure it precisely and cut on a slant so that the
weather-stripping fits tightly together at the door corners and against the
threshold.
Other types of door jamb weather-stripping are the spring bronze cushion
type, magnetic "bellows," and the interlocking metal
weather-strip. None require special skills or tools, but precise cutting
and alignment are crucial, particularly for the interlocking channels.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions included with the product.
Door bottoms, because they take so much use, require sturdier
weather-stripping. Door bottom weather-stripping is either installed in the
threshold or recessed into the door bottom.
The threshold itself is easy to install using screws. However, you must
remove the door, and carefully measure and cut it to fit the new threshold.
Bevel it 1/8 inch (Fig. 7.9) for an effective seal between the vinyl gasket
weather-stripping and the door bottom.
Door shoes (Fig. 7.8) are made to install with the door on its hinges, but
it may be necessary to remove the door and trim it if clearance is
inadequate. The door shoe is then attached to the door bottom with screws.
Manufacturer's instructions are easy to follow. Automatic door bottom
closures can be difficult to install. Follow manufacturer's instructions.
Caulking
To Apply Caulking, You'll Need:
Caulking Materials
- Silicone rubber, polyurethane, polysulfide, or acrylic terpolymer, or
acrylic latex compound. Butyl rubber caulking compound should be used on
metal and masonry joints. Caulking is sold in cartridges. If you are
caulking an entire house, buy 5 or 6 11-oz. cartridges to start, and
purchase more if you need them.
- A filler such as oakum, caulking cotton, glass fiber strips, or sponge
rubber to fill the extra-wide cracks.
Tools and Equipment:
- Ladder
- Caulking gun, available on a rental basis
- Putty knife or large screwdriver
- Cleaning solvent
Caulking should be applied wherever two materials in the house meet. Caulk
on both sides of the trim around window and door frames.
First, clean the area of paint buildup, dirt, or deteriorated caulk. Use
solvent and a putty knife or large screwdriver.
Fill large cracks of 3/8 inch or more (such as those where the house meets
the foundation) with filler strips (Fig. 7.10). Caulk over the filling
strips to ensure a tight seal.
Hold the caulking gun at a 45-degree angle. Draw a good bead of caulk to
start, making sure it overlaps both sides (Fig. 7.11). As you move the gun
across the surface, pump the trigger to keep the caulk flowing evenly.
Next: Storm Windows and Sliding or Insulated Doors
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