Acadia National Park offers a variety of fine climbs on small cliffs created during the last continental glaciation. Most of these cliffs are composed of solid coarse-grained pink granite. The longest routes are three pitches. Otter Cliffs and Great Head provide a spectacular setting for sea cliff climbing not commonly available elsewhere in the U.S.

Safety
Climbers assume responsibility for personal safety. On some routes local climbers maintain fixed protection or rappel stations. As always, evaluate them before using. At Otter Cliffs, the park maintains fixed anchors on top that must be used instead of trees to belay several climbs. Evaluate these anchors as well, and notify the park immediately of safety concerns. Climbers at Great Head and Otter Cliffs should know tides and weather forecasts; climbing at these areas is more difficult and dangerous at high tide or in heavy seas. Climb within your limits.

Emergency Phone
911

Instruction/Guiding
Climbing instruction, guiding, and equipment are available locally. Check with area chambers of commerce.

Guidebooks

• Jeff Butterfield: Acadia, A Climbers Guide
• Pete Warner: Rock Climbing in Acadia National Park
• John Harlan: East Coast Rock Climbs (some information on Acadia)

A copy of A Climbers Guide to Mount Desert Island by Geoffrey Childs (1979 - out of print) is available for review at Hulls Cove Visitor Center and local libraries.

Commonly Used Climbing Areas

• Otter Cliffs: 60' sea cliffs, crack and face climbing, rappel access, routes up to 5.12
• South Wall (Champlain): 3-pitch routes to 5.12, good corners and thin cracks
• Central Slabs: 1-pitch routes, some good beginner routes, routes to 5.10
• South Bubble: 1- to 3-pitch routes, some friction climbing, good beginner routes
• Great Head: high-grade sea cliff climbing, rappel access, know tides and weather

Many other small areas are used infrequently. Good bouldering can be found along the ocean between Sand Beach and Otter Cliffs, and near Blackwoods Campground.