Wayne Loch and Brooke Ballenger
University of Minnesota Extension Service
During
the last decade, participation in horse-related activities
has continued to grow. The National Safety Council estimates
that more than 10 million people in the United States are
involved in equine sports. Membership in many horse associations
has grown steadily.
These
numbers reflect the importance of safe horse handling at every
level. Basic safety practices are essential in every horse
operation. This publication describes some important safety
precautions that should be taken to ensure that you have a
safe and enjoyable experience with your horse.
The
key to true horsemanship is to respect your horse and to be
patient with it. Likewise, the horse must be taught to respect
its handler. In order to develop these traits and to maintain
your safety, you must understand the horse's behavior.
Horses
survive in the wild because of their instinct to flee from
danger. This is called the "flight instinct." Therefore, horses
may react to unfamiliar objects and circumstances by spooking,
or fleeing, from the object of fear. Horses detect danger
through their vision, sense of smell and keen sense of hearing.
Remember that when a horse spooks at "nothing," it may be
reacting to something it can hear that you cannot.
Horses
also see differently than humans do, and they can be easily
spooked if surprised. They have wide-angle vision, but they
also have blind spots directly behind and in front of themselves.
The horse has to position its head to focus its vision, and
when it focuses on one area, it cannot see the other areas
clearly. For example, when it lifts its head and pricks its
ears, it is focusing on something far away. The horse lowers
its head when focusing on low, close objects. Keep these blind
spots in mind and know where your horse's attention is focused
so you do not scare it.
Your
horse's ears will give you clues, too : they will point in
the direction in which its attention is focused. Ears that
are "laid back," or flattened backward, warn you that the
horse is getting ready to kick or bite. Know the difference
between ears that are laid back and ears that simply indicate
a resting or listening horse.
Horses
have powerful hind legs to defend themselves, so it is only
normal for them to kick when surprised. Spoiled horses that
kick or strike out of habit, however, should be left for professional
horse trainers to handle.
Always
work with calm but deliberate movements around horses. Nervous
handlers can make horses nervous, creating unsafe situations.
Never, ever lose your temper or blame your horse for your
mistakes. It is best to quit for the day rather than take
out your frustrations on the animal. Administering proper,
consistent discipline is important for maintaining safety,
but there is never a good reason for losing your temper. It
only makes unsafe situations worse, either scaring the horse
or causing t to retaliate.
When
catching a horse, approach from its left shoulder, holding the
lead rope in the hand nearest the horse and the halter in the
opposite hand. Move slowly but confidently, speaking to the
horse as you approach. Read the horse's intention by watching
its body language. If it shows signs of moving away, move more
slowly, or move away and head it off before it goes too far
in another direction. Be careful not to get into a situation
where you could get kicked, which can happen if your horse feels cornered or threatened. Some people use feed to catch their
horses, but it is best to teach your horse to be caught without
feed, particularly when it is turned out with other horses.
The other horses may crowd you and you could get stepped on.
Once
you are able to touch your horse, rub it on the neck and slowly
place the lead rope over the neck. Moving your arms too quickly
could encourage it to run from you. Standing alongside the
horse's neck, slide the halter on the horse by bringing it
upwards on the muzzle and over the head, being careful not
to drag it over the nose, eyes or ears. Rough handling can
cause horses to become head-shy, making haltering and bridling
more difficult.
Adjust
the halter with enough room at the throat to slip a hand between
the throatlatch and the horse's jaw. The halter should be
tight enough to prevent a foot from getting caught when the
horse lowers its head, yet have sufficient room to prevent
binding the throat.
Be careful
when approaching a horse that is preoccupied, such as when
its head is in a hay manger. When approaching a horse in a
stall, speak to the horse to get its attention and wait until
it turns and faces you before entering. It is harder to escape
a dangerous situation within the confines of a stall, so always
make sure you have an "out."
If
approaching a horse in a tie stall, make sure the horse moves
over before you walk in beside it.
Speak to your horse and keep your hands on it when moving
around it. Even if a horse is aware of your presence, it can
be startled by quick movements. When approaching from the
rear, advance at an angle. Speak to the horse, make sure you
have its attention, and touch it gently as you pass by its
hindquarters.
Hold
the lead line with your right hand, 8 to 10 inches away from
the horse's head, while holding the end, or bight, of the line
with your left hand. If the horse acts up, you can let go with
your right hand, but still hold on with your left hand. Always
use a lead line so you have this "safety zone" and to prevent
getting a hand caught in the halter.
Teach
your horse to walk beside you so that you are walking at its
left shoulder. Hold your right elbow near the horse's shoulder
so you can anticipate its actions. Horses must be taught to
move away from pressure so they do not crowd or lean when
you try to push them away. If you are leading an unfamiliar
horse, or a horse that tends to be fresh, you may want to
put a chain over the nose for more control. Do not let the
horse "walk" you. Do not allow it to get behind you either,
as it could jump into you if spooked.
When
changing directions, turn the horse away from you so that
you do not get stepped on (Figure 1). To lead a horse through
a doorway, make sure there is enough room so that it will
not bump its sides. You should step through first, then quickly
step to the side out of the horse's way. Keep an eye on it,
as some horses try to rush through narrow spaces.
The bight of lead lines and longer lines should be folded in
the left hand to prevent handlers from stepping on the line
or getting their hands caught. When folding is too bulky,
coil the line in large loops like a lariat, but be sure the
loops are not so big that you might trip over them. Never
wrap any piece of equipment attached to a horse around your
hand, even with small loops, as it could wrap around the hand
and cause serious injury. If the horse pulls away from you,
the loops can slide through your hand, entangling your fingers
very quickly. Do not underestimate this danger! Many handlers,
amateur and professional, have suffered serious injuries such
as lost fingers and maimed hands in this way.
If your
lead line has a chain on the end, do not loop it through the
halter ring under the chin and back to itself. If the horse
lowers its head, it could get its foot caught in the loop
of the shank. Instead, you should either put the chain over
the horse's nose, or put it through the halter ring on the
left cheek and hook it to the throatlatch ring (Figure 2).
There
are two ways to tie a horse: tying with a single lead and cross-tying.
When tying with a single lead, tie to a solid fixture, such
as a post or a ring in a solid wall, and use a quick-release
knot (Figure 3). Some horses learn how to untie a quick-release
knot, so you may have to put the end of the line through the
loop.
Always tie with a lead rope and not with reins. When tying
to a hitching rail, stagger the horses on both sides so that
they cannot fight. Tie horses far enough from the end of the
rail so that they cannot move around to the other side.
Tie
the horse at or above the level of its withers, and tie it
short enough that it cannot lower its head and get a foot
over the lead. The horse should be able to stand with its
head at a comfortable level. Never tie to wire fences, posts
where the knot could slip to the ground, or to anything that
may come loose if the horse pulls back. If tying a horse in
a stall, do not tie to the stall door. A panicked horse could
pull the door off its hinges and drag it.
Do not
leave your horse tied up without supervision, especially if
it is alone. The horse is a herd animal and may panic if left
alone, possibly injuring itself or the person who tries to
free it.
Cross-tying
can be dangerous if not done properly, so it should be done
only where there is secure footing, if possible where there
is a wall a few feet behind the horse to keep it from backing
up too far. Use cross-ties with safety snaps and set them
high in the wall to prevent the horse from getting a leg over
if it rears. The cross-ties should be made of material that
can be cut quickly, and should be tied with enough slack for
the horse to hold its head comfortably. Do not use rubber
ties. If the horse pulls back, rubber ties can throw the horse
backward if they break or forward when the horse gives. Never
leave a horse unattended on cross-ties.
Always
untie the horse before removing its halter. When turning it
loose, lead it through the gate and turn it around to face
the direction from which you entered. It is safest to remove
the halter, but if you must turn him out with a halter, use
a leather one because it will break more readily than nylon
if the horse becomes entangled. After you remove the halter,
make the horse stand quietly for several seconds before letting
it go completely. This will help prevent the horse from developing
a habit of bolting away and kicking at you in the process.
Make sure you have an escape route in case the horse spins
around and kicks out.
Wear
hard-toed boots to protect your feet in case you get stepped
on. Do not wear tennis shoes or open-toed sandals. Also avoid
wearing dangling jewelry and pull back long hair so that it
does not restrict your vision or get caught.
Use
grooming equipment gently on your horse, particularly on animals
with sensitive skin. Some horses can become sour and begin
nipping at you if they anticipate discomfort during grooming.
Be sure not to leave your equipment where the horse could
step on it.
Stay
near the horse and keep a hand on it at all times so you can
anticipate its movements. Never sit on the ground or groom
from your knees, and always be in a position to move away
quickly. Do not hurry the grooming procedure, especially with
a young or spooky horse.
Begin
grooming with a rubber currycomb, which is more gentle than
a metal one. Start on the neck and brush in a circular motion.
Work from front to back, grooming carefully in bony areas.
Avoid using the currycomb on the face, lower legs or flanks.
You
may use a shedding blade to remove shedding hair, but be very
gentle, especially on bony areas or if the horse is muddy.
Do not use the shedding blade on the mane, tail or legs.
After
you have loosened the dirt and hair, use a brush to remove
it. If using two brushes, use the stiffer one first, but avoid
brushes with extremely hard bristles. Start on the neck and
brush with the hair, working from front to back. Be sure to
clean the horse's belly where the cinch lies to prevent saddle
sores.
The
stiff brush also can be used in a side-to-side motion to remove
mud on the feet and legs, but it may be necessary to wash
mud from the lower legs rather than groom roughly to remove
it.
Use
a soft brush to put on the finishing touches and to brush
the face. Untie the horse when brushing its face, and work
slowly and gently, as many horses are sensitive. Hold the
halter in one hand, or drop the halter around the neck and
place one hand over the horse's nose to prevent getting hit
if it tosses its head. Start on top of the forehead, and be
careful around the eyes, mouth and nose. Avoid placing your
face over or too close to the horse's face, as the animal
can move its head quickly and hit you.
Stand
near and to the side of the hind leg when grooming the hindquarters
and brushing the tail. If you must stand behind the horse,
be sure you can move away quickly if something from the front
scares the horse. When working in the flank and loin areas,
get a feel for your horse's reaction. If it shows anxiety,
work on these areas more gently.
Use
the soft brush on the mane and tail. If there are tangles,
it is best to pick through them with your fingers, but you
also may use a mane comb.
When
moving behind the horse, walk as closely to it as possible,
keeping a hand on it at all times. If it kicks, you will be
hurt less because the kick has not had time to gain full momentum.
Walking only a few feet behind the horse is unsafe because
you will receive the kick with full force. If you do not want
to walk closely, move far enough away so that there is no
chance of getting kicked, and make sure the horse is aware
of your presence when you approach the other side. When working
wit a horse in a stall, walk closely because you will not
have enough room to move clear. When working with a spooky
or unfamiliar horse, stand to the side and run your hands
over its hindquarters to get a feel for its reaction.
Do not
climb over or under the lead line of a tied horse. The horse
may pull back and cause you to trip over the line, and you
will have no quick escape should the horse lunge forward,
paw or try to bite. Never walk under the belly of any horse.
If your
horse wears a cribbing strap, remove it before working with
the horse, particularly when performing tasks that could scare
it, such as trimming with electrical clippers. If something
startles it and it raises its head too high, the strap can
cut off its air and cause it to pass out.
Hoofs
should be cleaned daily and trimmed or reshod every four to
six weeks. Pick out your horse's feet each time you handle it
and before and after each ride.
Start
with the left front and work around to its right front, since
most horses are accustomed to this order. Facing the rear
of the horse, place your near hand on its shoulder and rub
down its leg with your other hand. If it does not pick up
its foot, push on its shoulder to shift its weight, or squeeze
the tendons above the fetlock until it picks up its foot.
If you try to force the foot up, it is likely that the horse
will lean on you or lose its balance.
As
the foot yields, slip your outside hand in front of the foot
and raise it to knee height promptly, but without jerking.
Hold the foot firmly enough that the horse cannot jerk its
foot away from you. If the horse gets anxious and struggles,
put the foot down and start over. Be sure your feet are not
placed where it will step on them if it pulls away.
Use the hoof pick in a downward motion toward the toe (Figure
4). Never use the hoof pick from toe to heel because it is
more likely to get caught in a crevice and puncture the sole
or frog if the foot is jerked from your grasp.
Clean
the sole, the frog and the crevices around the frog well.
Look for bruises, punctures, foreign objects or signs of disease.
If you find a problem, consult your veterinarian or farrier.
To clean
the hind feet, place your near hand on the horse's hip to
shift its weight. This also enables you to push the horse
away if it tries to kick. Run your other hand down the back
of its leg to the fetlock, using the same procedure as with
the front feet to ask it to lift its foot. As the horse picks
up its foot, slip your hand around it. Pull the foot slightly
backward and lift it up, either cradling it in your hand or
resting it on your inside knee. Allow the horse to relax in
the posit on that is most comfortable for it. Do not force
the foot too high or pull it too far back, as this will put
the horse off balance. Position yourself so that you will
not end up behind the horse if it struggles. When you put
the foot down, release it slowly, making sure not to drop
it.
Clean
stable conditions are essential for proper hoof care. Dirty
bedding or extremely wet, muddy conditions can cause several
ailments, including thrush, canker and cracked heels. Stalls
should be cleaned every day, making sure to get beneath the
top layer to the wet spots. This also helps eliminate respiratory
hazards associated with high ammonia levels. In addition,
stalls should be stripped periodically and floors disinfected
with lime to reduce odors.
Children
should be supervised when working around horses. The kindest
horse can accidentally step on a small child if the child gets
underfoot. Be sure children are aware of all precautions. Some
tasks, such as cleaning the feet, are more difficult for children,
so be sure there is adequate supervision and that they have
the strength and ability for the given task.
Fly
control is a safety measure as well as a kindness to your
horse. Spray your horse from the same positions used to groom
it. Make sure it is aware of your presence and your intentions,
and untie it in case it is afraid and tries to pull back.
If it is too jumpy, put some fly spray on a towel and rub
it on the horse. Do likewise around the face, avoiding the
eyes. Always read the chemical label and heed its precautions.
Other
safety practices include:
- Some
clothing may frighten a horse, such as flapping jackets
or plastic raincoats. Allow the horse to adjust if it is
afraid, or remove the coat. Strange objects such as umbrellas
also may have the same effect. Respect handlers and riders
by approaching with caution.
- Do
not run or play around barns, and do not begin work that
may frighten horses without warning handlers or riders ahead
of time. Others may be working with horses in the stalls,
and they could be hurt if their horses spook. This includes
nailing boards, work involving climbing on stalls, or throwing
hay down from lofts.
- Some
horses are aggressive at feeding time, so allow them space
while they eat. Avoid hand-feeding treats, especially sweets.
Some horses begin to expect a treat and may develop a habit
of biting. Never tease your horse.
- Check
stalls periodically for protruding nails and broken boards.
- Keep
all areas free from trash and clutter and put away all tools
and equipment after use. Good housekeeping reduces fire
hazards and helps prevent injuries to people and horses.
- Keep
electrical wires, such as clipper cords and extension cords,
completely out of the reach of horses. They may chew or
step on them and be electrocuted. Do not leave dangling
cords unattended for even a minute : it won't take long
for a horse to discover them. Do not leave electric fans
or similar equipment running overnight or at other times
when barns are not supervised.
- Leave
horse restraint practices, such as twitches and lip chains,
to experienced handlers. Be sure that you have been thoroughly
educated in the use of restraints before attempting to use
them. Less experienced handlers should be supervised, as
some horses may overreact and strike or "run over" the handler.
If restraints are used improperly, they could cause injury
to you or the horse.
- Do
not smoke in barns, and never mix alcohol or drugs with
horse-related activities.
- Have
a first aid kit for humans available, as well as a first
aid kit for horses. Make sure someone in your facility is
trained in cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) and first
aid.
- Post
all emergency numbers near the phone and cover the list
in plastic. Also post home numbers of the barn's owner,
manager and trainer, and have home and work numbers of all
boarders and parents of minors readily available.
- Use
extra caution when working around young or spoiled horses.
These animals are best left to professional trainers until
they are safe for amateurs.
Most
important, do not become careless in safety procedures, even
around older, familiar horses, because the unexpected can
always happen. Realize that all horses are different, and
that what may be safe with one horse may not be with another.
If in doubt about whether your horse will perform a task safely,
consult an experienced horse trainer. Make safety practices
a part of your daily routine until they become habit.
For
more information, also see these MU publications:
- G01950,
Responding to Farm Accidents;
- G02825,
Illustrated Hoof Care for Horses;
- G02844,
Haltering and Tying Horses; and
- G02862,
Practical Horse Psychology.
This
publication replaces MU publication G02880, Horse Safety:
Catching, Leading and Grooming, in the Agricultural Guides
series.
Disclaimer
and Reproduction Information: Information in NASD does not represent
NIOSH policy. Information included in NASD appears by permission
of the author and/or copyright holder. More
NASD Review: 04/2002
This fact
sheet,
G2878
,
was produced under Cooperative Agreement U05/CCU7060804-01 between
the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health and
the University of Missouri. For more information call (314)
882-2731. Publication date: January 1994.
Wayne
Loch, Department of Animal Sciences, University of Missouri-Columbia;
Brooke Ballenger, Extension Occupational Safety Program, University
of Missouri-Columbia.
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