Stanislaus National Forest

Recreational Activities

Calaveras Ranger District

Rock Climbing

The Calaveras Ranger District contains almost unlimited rock climbing opportunities including vertical granite outcrops as well as boulder fields perfect for rock hopping (bouldering) and scrambling.

Calaveras Dome, 1.5 hours northwest of Bear Valley via 4x4 roads, offers big granite for serious climbers.

CLIMBING

• Box Canyon: 70-100 foot climbs characterized by moderate crack and face climbing ranging from 5.5-5.9. Park at the dirt pullout 0.4 miles east of the Bear Valley junction with Highway 4. Cross the stream and follow a vague trail downstream. Shortly before the creek jogs westward follow the foot trail left into the forest. The main cliff is on your left.
• Spicer Road Crags: Several opportunities are scattered along the northeast side of the Spicer Reservoir Road, at milepost 0.8 (a few overhanging direct aid problems, A2-3); milepost 2.3 (a set of twin cracks, 5.10); and milepost 2.4 (a west facing buttress with two cracks, 5.9-10). (Note: all mileage is measured from the junction of Spicer Reservoir Road and Highway 4.)
• Spicer Terraces: 3 tiers of mostly steep cracks, ranging from 5.7 to 5.11+. Park at the end of Spicer Reservoir Road below the dam. Walk across the bridge and follow downstream. After crossing the spillway take a sharp left and parallel it until reaching the first large boulder. Follow a climbers' trail to your right uphill for 5-10 minutes. After crisscrossing a stream bed the trail deposits you at the west end of the lower tier.

BOULDERING

• School House Boulders: Moderate slab problems to more challenging edging and pockets. Either climb the hill behind the Community Center in Bear Valley or park at the Box Canyon pullout and walk 100 yards west down Highway 4 until adjacent with the large perched boulder. Head north staying slightly west of the ridge line.
• Tamarack Boulders: Moderate to difficult crack and face climbing. Park at the Highway 4/Salt Springs Road junction 2.3 miles west of Bear Valley and follow the slabs uphill to the obvious boulders. Most problems can be found south of the power lines.
• Hells Kitchen: Park at the Hells Kitchen vista point 3.5 miles west of Bear Valley and follow the foot trail.
• Big Meadow: Two large boulders, one with a bolted top rope anchor. Park at the Big Meadow Picnic Area, head south crossing the creek, then bear right.
• Stanislaus River Boulders: Steep face climbing. Walk 15 minutes downstream from the Stanislaus River Campground (2.8 miles down the Spicer Reservoir Road) until reaching the waterslide.

US Forest Service - Stanislaus National Forest
Last Modified: Thursday, 23 October 2008 at 12:51:30 EDT