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Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Canoeing/Kayaking

"The river flows in long sigmoid curves through an alluvial valley of no great width. The amount of this alluvial land enclosed by a single bend is called a bottom, which may be either covered with cotton-wood trees or else be simply a great grass meadow. From the edges of the valley the land rises abruptly in steep high buttes whose crests are sharp and jagged. This broken country extends back from the river for many miles, and has been called always, by Indians, French voyageurs, and American trappers alike, the "Bad Lands"..."

Theodore Roosevelt

A float trip down the Little Missouri River is an ideal way to experience the beauty and solitude of the North Dakota Badlands. It takes about three or four days to canoe the 110 miles between Medora near the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park and Long X Bridge on U.S. Highway 85 near the park's North Unit. Two days are needed to continue from Long X Bridge to Lost Bridge on State Highway 22 (Little Missouri Bay on Lake Sakakawea).

The river ice generally breaks up and is flushed downstream by early March. Thereafter, moderating temperatures and spring rains may combine to produce satisfactory conditions for float trips. In the past, March and April have been the best months, though travel has occasionally been possible at other times. Because the amount of rainfall dictates river levels, one should contact park headquarters in Medora for up-to-date information on local water and weather conditions. Each year is different and difficult to predict. For much of the year, low water levels and restrictive channels require frequent portages. Instead of carrying a portage, it is usually sufficient to step out of the canoe and drag it through the stretch of shallow water. Bring shoes adequate for wading and exercise caution to avoid drop-offs and soft bottoms. In years with little rainfall, the river may not be floatable at all. Sections of the river may dry up all together.

Summer thunderstorms may cause the water level to suddenly increase with little or no warning. The quiet river can change into a rampaging torrent in minutes, carrying large logs and other debris. Stay alert for changes in the weather and rising water.

 
Because the river winds through truly remote terrain, it is important that complete advance preparations be made for your trip. Temperatures and the amount of precipitation may vary widely in late spring, so clothing should be adequate for a broad range of climatic conditions. Clothes that retain warmth when wet, such as wool, are suggested. Hats and lotion for sun protection are a must. With the exception of Medora and park campgrounds, there are no reliable sources of drinking water along the route. Infrequent ranches along the river are usually obscured by the high banks which flank the channel. Maps showing unsurfaced roads to these ranches may be misleading. A short rain may quickly make a clay road impassable. Local conditions should be checked before depending on access, and changes should be anticipated. Plan to carry an adequate supply of water and food with you, and don't forget a first aid kit, spare paddles, and approved life preservers. Two other items that may help are a supply of large plastic bags for keeping your supplies waterproof (and for litter) and a bucket or big sponge to bail out water and mud.

There are many inviting campsites in the cottonwood groves along the river, but the supply of available firewood is severely limited. For this reason, and because much of the land bordering the water is in private ownership , it is recommended that all,cooking be done on liquid or gas-fueled campstoves. No open fires are permitted on park lands. Most of the land that boarders the river outside the park is private. Contact landowner in advance for permission to camp.

As a courtesy, please pick up all litter and carry your non-combustible trash with you until you can properly dispose of it in a suitable waste receptacle. If you plan to camp in the park at locations other than the designated campgrounds, you must obtain a free backcountry use permit at one of the park visitor centers.

Campsite selection is sometimes difficult. on years when the river rises high enough to occupy the flood plain, a thick deposit of mud limits campsites to higher terraces adjacent to the banks. Also, after the channel is ice free early in the season, it is common to have large heaps of mud-covered ice slabs lining the shores.

Please notify park personnel if you intend to leave a vehicle in the park so that they can help you find a suitable parking place.

The use of outboard motors is permitted but not recommended because the channel is frequently too shallow for their use, and the river's heavy silt load may destroy the engine's water pumps after a very brief running time.

Fishing for channel catfish, goldeyes and sauger is permitted, but the quantity and quality of these fishes is unpredictable. North Dakota state laws and license requirements apply. Binoculars, cameras, and appropriate field guides will add to your enjoyment, as wildlife and flowers are common along the river.

If you have additional questions or if you need current information on water levels, call park headquarters in Medora at (701) 623-4466. A water level reading (taken at Medora) of 2 feet or below is considered too shallow for canoeing. A map of the Little Missouri National Grasslands is available from the park bookstore or from the U.S. Forest Service.

Limited River Information is available at:  
http://waterdata.usgs.gov/nd/nwis/uv?06335500 (Marmarth)
http://waterdata.usgs.gov/nd/nwis/uv?06336000 (Medora)
http://waterdata.usgs.gov/nd/nwis/uv?06337000 (Watford City)

Remember! Water levels vary daily. High water and easy canoeing one day can be a float trip with several portages the next.

Warning! Wildlife barriers have been installed across the Little Missouri River where it enters and exits the South Unit of the park. A short portage around these fences that block the river are required. Also be aware that, on occasion, river users have reported wires and other temporary fences strung across the river outside of the park boundary. There were no warning signs to let boaters know of these upcoming fences.

 
MILEAGE, LITTLE MISSOURI RIVER, SOUTH TO NORTH
Marmarth to Billings County Line 79.0 miles
Billings County Line to Medora (South Unit) 41.5 miles
Medora to Elkhorn Ranch 39.5 miles
Elkhorn Ranch to McKenzie County Line 9.5 miles
McKenzie County Line to U.S. 85 (North Unit) 58.5 miles
U.S. 85 to N.D. 22, Lost Bridge 40.5 miles
Total 268.5 miles
Through South Unit, TRNP 11.0 miles
Through North Unit, TRNP 14.5 miles
Theodore Roosevelt had two ranch operations in the Dakota Territory yet did not own any land.  

Did You Know?
Theodore Rooevelt had two ranch operations along the Little Missouri River, the Maltese Cross Ranch and the Elkhorn Ranch, yet did not own any land in what is now known as North Dakota.

Last Updated: September 30, 2007 at 16:47 EST