Update for August 23, 2008
Fee season for Mt. Adams began
on June 01, 2008
RECREATION REPORT FOR AREAS
AFFECTED BY THE COLD SPRINGS FIRE
July 31, 2008:
Access
to Mt. Adams South Climbs reopens - revised Cold Springs Fire
closure order
FEE SEASON FOR MT. ADAMS BEGINS ON JUNE 1, 2008
The Cascades Volcano Pass is required to climb Mt. Adams from
June 1 to September 30.
Currently the South Climb Trail up to 8000 ft is free of snow.
False summit is no longer covered with continuous snow, however
on 8/20-21, new snow was received above 7000 feet and there is
still some new snow. Some boulder scrambling is necessary.
Please prepare for winter-like conditions at high elevations and
we still recommend crampons for the permanent snow fields.
There are large sun cups at all elevations with snow. Currently
we are recommending the Crescent Ridge route for your climb.
When descending, note the last cairn (a post with a rock pile
base) on Crescent Ridge that marks the traverse to the lower trail
at the base of the Crescent glacier. Continuing down Crescent
Ridge past this cairn is a common way for climbers to get lost
as they miss the main trail and travel too far west.
Please check the glissade paths, there may be rocks
coming through. Do not glissade with crampons on.
(This is a common cause of lower leg fractures). Help is
a very long time coming and cannot get to you in poor weather.
There are reports of running water at Lunch Counter, but be prepared
to melt snow. There is no running water below Lunch Counter.
As the nights get colder there is less running water.
Blue bags should be disposed of in
the human waste containers at the South Climb parking lot.
Do not climb
in hazardous weather! Note that weather can change rapidly
for the worst in the mountains despite forecasts.
Review forecasts
by the National Weather Service and any special postings by the
NW Weather and Avalanche Center prior to any mountaineering.
(www.nws.noaa.gov)
ROAD CONDITIONS
The road to Cold Springs,
the South Climb Trailhead, is open to the parking lot. The
23 Rd. is still closed south of Takhlakh Lake due to an impassible
wash out which is due to be repaired by the end of September.
The 25 road is open from Randle to the 90 rd, then to Trout
Lake.
SUGGESTED ALTERNATE CLIMBING OPTIONS:
1) NORTH CLEAVER ROUTE
2) ADAMS GLACIER ROUTE
The North Cleaver Route and the Mt. Adams Glacier Route can be
accessed from the Killen Creek Trailhead.
NORTH CLEAVER: The North Cleaver Route is rocky.
Ice axes and crampons are essential.
Access the North Cleaver via Killen Creek trail #113, then High
Camp trail#10 (approximately four miles total). North Cleaver
lies in a north-south direction between Adams and Lava Glaciers.
A bearing of due south across the summit dome leads to the summit.
Time: 12-16 hours from the road to summit; 5-8
hours down. Allow 2 days).
ADAMS GLACIER: The Adams Glacier route is for
experienced technical climbers only—Crevassed 35-40 degree
slope and prevalent heavy rockfalls. Ice axes, crampons, and ropes
required.
Access the Adams Glacier route via Killen Creek trail #113, then
High Camp trail #10 (approximately four miles total). From High
Camp bear southeast to the lower edge of Adams Glacier (approximately
7,000 feet elevation). Continue southeast for one to one-and-one
half miles to icefall between North Ridge and Northwest Ridge.
Ascend icefall to summit dome and then south to the True Summit.
Time: conditions on the Adams Glacier route are
generally better in early summer. Allow two days to complete the
climb.
ROAD CONDITIONS: Call for updated information.
(509-394-3402). The Killen Creek Trailhead is accessible via the
5603 Road to the 2329 Road, then proceed to the Killen Creek Trailhead.
The Trailhead is also accessible from the 23 Road to the 2329
Road, then proceed to the Killen Creek Trailhead.
Forest Road
23 between Randle and Trout Lake is impassible. There is
a washout of the road just south of Baby Shoe Pass that is scheduled
for repair during the summer and fall of 2008.
For the latest information
on conditions please call the Mt. Adams Ranger Station at 509-395-3402.
