The Vogue editor Anna Wintour has always been a supporter of John Galliano, the disgraced former Dior designer and new Maison Martin Margiela creative director. But on Monday evening, she offered what might have been the most public sign yet that in her view it was time for the world to turn the page; follow Renzo Rosso, Margiela’s owner; and move on.
She not only asked Mr. Galliano to present her with her Outstanding Achievement statuette at the British Fashion Awards, but she also wore a Margiela by John Galliano design, the fashion house confirmed Tuesday morning.
As fashion world blessings go, it was about as unambiguous as anything I’ve seen.
It was also, as far as I can recall, the first time Ms. Wintour has appeared at a major black tie event not in Chanel. And that was a whopper of a message to send to fashion world: one at least as powerful as the mutual appreciation that Mr. Galliano and Ms. Wintour exchanged onstage.
As for the custom-made dress itself — bias-cut, long, sleeveless, round-necked, black with hand-embroidered silvery white parrot tulips twining their way up the sides and a matching white capelet of shaved feathers — it was elegant and simple, reflecting a stripped-down version of Mr. Galliano’s former trademark romanticism. If nothing about it necessarily telegraphed Maison Martin Margiela, or reflected that brand’s historic subversion of received tropes — of which evening wear is a prime candidate… well, perhaps this was not the time.
Indeed, perhaps its absence indicated a new sensitivity on Mr. Galliano’s part to context, and the need to approach his new gig, the external world and its judgments with a little humility. Certainly his own appearance — bare(ish)-faced, hair pulled back, uncostumed, in line with his recent begin-again demeanor — suggests a more straightforward approach.
On the other hand, given that Mr. Margiela never appeared in public, whether to bestow an award or otherwise, perhaps it also indicates the beginning of the change in that brand.
In any case, Mr. Galliano’s appearance at the biggest fashion night of the year in Britain, with all the establishment approval that implies; the sight of his new work; and Ms. Wintour’s clear promotion, pretty much trumped all other news of the evening, including Nicolas Ghesquière beating Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane for the International Designer prize, and Erdem and J. W. Anderson being awarded Womenswear and Menswear designer.
Mr. Rosso, who was the subject of a lot of controversy when he announced Mr. Galliano’s appointment at Maison Martin Margiela, must be rubbing his hands in glee.