Fitzcarraldo

A kind of magical loneliness possesses Fitzcarraldo, which occupies a corner of a 30,000-square-foot former warehouse in the East Williamsburg In-Place Industrial Park. Music rains down from a gramophone horn embedded in the ceiling; spiky ferns half-spill out of hanging baskets; peacock-blue flowered tile runs underfoot. The gestures at beautiful decay come, like the restaurant’s name, from Werner Herzog’s 1982 film “Fitzcarraldo,” in which a madman dreams of building an opera house in the Amazon. The food is Italian, mostly Ligurian, and lovely, with one of the best renditions of cacio e pepe in town. — Ligaya Mishan