Bar Bolonat

Bar Bolonat’s chef and owner is Einat Admony, who also has Balaboosta and the exemplary falafel chain Taïm. The white napkins, polished stemware, sheer curtains and understated modern furniture at Bar Bolonat are all a determined bid for the kinds of diners who would steer clear of anything resembling a hummus hut. The daughter of Iranian and Yemenite exiles in Tel Aviv, Ms. Admony combines the flavors she knew growing up with the idioms of modern restaurants in New York. Energetic seasoning drives her cuisine at Bar Bolonat, and can be seen in dishes like shrimp in a Yemenite curry, with a fiery shot of green zhug and a small round of fried bread called malawa to soak up the spicy, turmeric-gold coconut milk. — PETE WELLS