Tea and Tom of Finland: An afternoon at the Joule’s Taschen library

CHRISTINA GEYER: If you ask me, Tea at Taschen is all just a clever trick — a chic, delicious, indulgent trick. For a coffee-table-book addict (me) and a sucker for old-fashioned, etiquette-driven traditions (also me), the Joule hotel’s newest endeavor, wherein the Taschen Library is turned into a tiny tea room on Friday afternoons, seems a ploy to get me buttered up to buy Taschen’s latest titles. (The never-ending supply of sparkling Gruet Sauvage served no doubt encourages book-buying urges.) But I am happy to partake in the trickery. The $59 service comes complete with the aforementioned wine plus sandwiches, desserts, three types of tea and (most important to me) a 10-percent discount on books purchased during your visit. A spoiler alert to lovers of traditional tea-time rituals: A tea captain, flowery china, ladies in hats, clotted cream, buttoned-up waiters and English teas are not to be found. Not even scones. As guests (up to 16 of them, seated communally) get tipsy (that sparkling wine flows from start to finish), teas sourced from Texas’ own Kai Organic Tea are presented in succession, perfect complements to the inventive tea sandwiches and sweets devised by Joule executive chef Jaco Smith and executive pastry chef Ruben Torano. The delicacies’ highly conceptual appearances are far cries from the typical cucumber-and-cream-cheese. For me, though, the best part was the end. I had stuffed myself silly with huckleberry buckles and smoked salmon rillette, and drank my fill of tea and bubbly, leaving just one thing left to do: Hand over my Visa card and pay the bill, to which I had added the book Bob Willoughby: Audrey Hepburn: Photographs 1953-1966. (I had one eye on it the whole time.)

CHRISTOPHER WYNN: “Who is Tom of Finland?” And with those overheard words, I knew immediately that Tea at Taschen would be utterly different from your grandma’s sip service. The question came from a blond woman pointing to a $200 oversize coffee-table book of homoerotic drawings — men, hypersexualized with bulging muscles, tight jeans and the occasional pair of backless chaps — by artist Touko Laaksonen, better known as Tom of Finland. She glanced back at the table filled with stylishly dressed women celebrating a friend’s birthday. They clinked champagne glasses and laughed.

Yes, these are the thrills and perils of hosting tea service in the city’s edgiest, most provocative bookshop. And that is its appeal. The communal tables may not be for everyone, but it did make for interesting conversation. We shared our lovely afternoon with an elegant pharmacist from Denton (I was compelled to asked her, “What are the hot new drugs?”) and her adorable young daughter. I loved all of the Joule’s tea trappings, such as the colorful, 24-karat-gold-plated Cristina Re teacups and saucers. (We learned each one is hand-washed, wrapped and stored in boxes between services.) That attention to detail is what you would expect here — and, in between the tea and dessert courses, your eyes get the added bonus of wandering over the cozy room’s shelves lined with inspiring, tantalizing tomes. Now, that’s something to really drink in. $59 per person, Fridays, 2:30 p.m. (Saturdays also, during November and December.) Reservations required via 214-748-1300, ext. 4363, or tea@thejouledallas.com. Information thejouledallas.com, #teaattaschen