I was in Paris for a week during the month of October and was reminded that it was wild mushroom season every time I sat down to eat. Cèpes (porcinis) and chanterelles were on menus everywhere; they were stirred into risottos, served along side fish and meat, and stood alone, pan-seared or stewed, as rich, comforting starters. In one Japanese restaurant I went to a winter squash soup was garnished with cèpes. The only part of the menu I didn’t see them on was desserts – but I didn’t go to many modern bistros either; who knows, I’ll bet some hot pastry chef somewhere has infused some wild mushroom umami flavor into ice cream.
We have had such a bad draught for so long in California that I knew I would not be finding much in the way of wild mushrooms at the farmers’ markets, so when I got back from France I went to Whole Foods to see what I could find, and what was affordable. There was plenty. Not fresh cèpes, but chanterelles (these, however, were wildly expensive) and less expensive oyster mushrooms and maitakis.
Now several wild mushroom varieties are being cultivated, including oyster mushrooms and maitakes, enokis and shiitakes, and a number of mushrooms that have been given proprietary trademarked names by the producers. I found mixed mushroom packets that were reasonably priced and played around with mushroom recipes all week. It didn’t matter to me that these “wild” mushrooms were not really wild. They had the flavors and textures of wild mushrooms I have gathered in the Provençal countryside – and they didn’t require the meticulous cleaning that real wild mushrooms require.
Mushrooms are meaty – it is their juicy, chewy texture and the umami element in their flavor profile — and lend themselves to Mediterranean as well as Asian seasonings. They are low in calories and an excellent source of B vitamins and many minerals, particularly selenium, copper, potassium, phosphorous, zinc and manganese. Wild mushrooms in particular also contain phytochemicals, including L-ergothioneine, which studies have shown to have antioxidant properties. They are used medicinally throughout Asia for their immune-boosting properties.
Seared Wild Mushrooms: There are a number of options for pan-seared mushrooms, from bruschetta to big bowls.
Cod With Chanterelles and Parsley Sauce: Chanterelles are expensive, but you get a lot of volume for your dollar.
Wild Mushroom and Potato Gratin: Wild mushrooms add a luxurious dimension to this comforting, almost classic potato gratin.
Mushroom Risotto With Peas: The wild mushrooms are what this risotto is really all about.
Baked Miso-Glazed Tofu With Wild Mushrooms: A vegan mushroom meal with Asian flavors.