Dispatch

The Forgotten Yazidis

The refugees who once captured the world's attention now sit outside the spotlight, wondering how they will survive the winter.

DOHUK, Iraq — Adeba Jowla lies almost motionless on rough, unfinished concrete, her face drained of color as she grips a shabby blanket. With no medical supplies, her untended bullet wounds cause her constant, excruciating pain. One of the bullets, from the barrel of an Islamic State militant's gun, remains lodged in her thigh. It urgently needs to be removed.

Surrounded by extended family members, Jowla is protected only slightly from the sun baking a half-built structure that has become a makeshift shelter for more than 60 Yazidi families seeking refuge in the Iraqi Kurdish city of Dohuk, in the country's north. With no aid yet received, or promised, the entire encampment is relying on the goodwill of the local community.

Like thousands of other Yazidis, Jowla fled to Sinjar mountain when the Islamic State advanced on her people's homeland. On Aug. 3, militants entered the city of Sinjar and massacred hundreds. Fearing for their lives, most of the surviving population fled without food or water, and in the days that followed, many died of dehydration, exhaustion, and starvation.

Jowla, 25, watched neighbors and friends from Sinjar die around her. In a desperate effort to save her family after a few days on the mountain, she decided to descend from the safe haven in a perilous effort to bring back supplies. In the process, the Islamic State nearly killed her. "On the way back, two normal cars were driving up on the street," Jowla says, as her younger sister delicately helps fix the thin, olive-green headscarf that hangs back on her head, allowing a bit of dark auburn hair to peek through. "It was Islamic State inside; they got out and shot both of us twice and left us to die. We managed to escape back to the mountain, but for eight days on the mountain I just lay there bleeding. After three days, my brother-in-law died. I thought I would die as well. I was sure of it."

As news of atrocities emerged, the Yazidis captured the world's attention. The media and political leaders tuned in, and the sunburned faces of the stranded became, for a moment, the faces of the ruin the Islamic State had brought to Iraq. The Sinjar massacre helped to spur U.S. intervention, and after American airstrikes gave them cover, Jowla and her family fled through Syria to Kurdistan, hoping to find relief.

According to the United Nations, there are now around 80,000 refugees who have settled in Dohuk, a city near the Syrian border with a population of just under 300,000 residents. The skeleton of a building Jowla and her family now live in sits at the entrance to the city, 120 miles from their former home. The building has no internal or external walls or windows. Dust and grit falls from the unfinished ceilings, settling on the floor for only a few minutes before being picked up by the mountain winds. Children pass the time staring at the cars speeding by on a highway, a stretch of which sits less than 300 feet away.

The refugees in Dohuk settled there believing the situation would be temporary. That was over two months ago, and any help they expected has yet to surface. Those who remained on Sinjar mountain and survived the August siege once again found themselves to be the targets of the Islamic State, which launched an assault on Oct. 20. The U.S. planes that had defended them before were now busy attacking Islamic State positions near the Syrian town of Kobani, nearly 200 miles west.

Since news about the Yazidis first appeared in the headlines, more substantial -- and much-needed -- relief efforts have stumbled. Liene Veide, the public information officer for the Office of the U.N. High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR), says the organization is doing all it can for internally displaced persons and refugees in the region, but that more funding and manpower is required. Coordination, it seems, is another problem: The United Nations is working with other local Kurdish organizations, along with the Kurdish Regional Government, to deliver aid, but some communities are receiving assistance multiple times, while others are getting none at all due to a lack of communication between these different organizations, Veide explained.

According to Veide, even with the new UNHCR camps currently in the planning stage in for Iraq, there still won't be room for everyone. "What we are working on now is absolutely not enough for the whole number -- absolutely not," Veide says.  

People at Jowla's encampment say they feel abandoned and frustrated. It was not what they expected in Dohuk, after surviving the horrors of the Islamic State and the hazardous trek to Kurdistan. "No one wants to help us. There is nothing here for us," Hassan Fidduy says, sitting in his family's small corner of the building. He is in his early 20s but looks at least 10 years older. "Where is the United Nations? The U.N. has done nothing for us. They came here once before, they took some photos, and then they left.... We are doing everything we can ourselves to keep ourselves alive and to find food and any water."

The media, he says, has also failed the Yazidis. "The first two weeks, the media was everywhere because of our situation, but afterwards no one cares," he explains.

Dohuk is spotted with similar buildings and accounts. Larger encampments have a few metal water tanks brought in by local communities, but water trucks have not come. Most people fill their tanks with well water from the ground outside their encampments. Clean drinking water comes only as packages of bottled water donated by the people of Dohuk, while food is dropped off by some concerned local families. This goodwill, however, is never enough.

At Jowla's around 20 families inhabit each of the first three floors of the structure. Each one has a square piece of concrete ground, cordoned off by their few belongings, mostly worn and dirty clothes. Stacks of thin foam rectangles are used for bedding, donated by local families in Dohuk. Privacy is nonexistent. The smell of human waste lingers; there are no toilets, and so for a time people used the basement level as a bathroom. Now they venture as far as they can to relieve themselves. Two wells that serve as the main sources of water are up the side of a nearby mountain.

Fidduy points at ill children in the building, thrusting his finger in all directions at ones cradles in arms or crudely built cribs, before resting it in the direction of a bucket full of water drawn from the two wells -- the cause, he says, of the most recent bout of sickness. He would give a person anything they dreamed of, he says laughingly, if they could drink just one cup of water from the bucket without falling ill. A few people have tried to dig other wells nearby, but so far every source they have found has brought severe diarrhea to the building's residents.

Barakat Darwish Khalil, one of the older refugees on the first floor of the complex, nods in agreement at Fidduy's claims. "The U.N. came to make interviews with us, and we told them we need all of this [clean water and bathrooms] desperately," he says. "The people who came didn't speak Kurdish. We used a translator. They never said they would come back, just that hopefully they would. We are still waiting."

So far the United Nations says it is trying its best to keep up with the high demand for aid in the area, but more funds and cooperation with other organizations are needed. While the UNHCR reports that it is currently working together with the local authorities, other U.N. agencies, and local and international NGOs on ongoing construction for winter preparedness in four existing camps for internally displaced persons located in districts surrounding Dohuk, at the moment, there is simply not enough aid or funds to go around.

Hard months lie ahead, as the inevitable cold of winter will envelop the mountains. Without more robust shelter and other aid, the Yazidi refugees fear the hard, upcoming winter.

"It is going to be cold soon -- that is what everyone is talking about," Khalil says, lowering his voice. "We don't have anything here to keep warm. We don't have gas; we don't know what we will do if someone doesn't come to help. We have no place to stay. We need help. When winter comes what will we do?"

AHMAD AL-RUBAYE/AFP/Getty Images

Dispatch

Pack It Up, Pack It In

Thirteen years after Wisconsin’s 829th Engineer Co. deployed to build Afghanistan’s war infrastructure, they’re back to tear it apart and take it home.

FORWARD OPERATING BASE FENTY, Afghanistan — When Nick Grob and Lucas Kramer first arrived in Afghanistan, the rubble from the 9/ 11 attacks on the World Trade Center was still being cleared in New York.

Grob and Kramer were part of a small group of electricians, plumbers, and carpenters from the Wisconsin National Guard's 829th Engineer Company that quietly deployed in the fall of 2001 with the task of building infrastructure for the United States' war effort in Afghanistan. They built housing, installed wiring, and laid pipes.

Now they're back with a different mission: breaking down tents, deconstructing hangars, boxing up parts. Vast bases that once housed thousands of troops plus all of their equipment from Humvees and cargo planes to desks and stoves are rapidly disappearing as the terrain reverts back to what it looked like before the war.

Thirteen years after the United States entered Afghanistan to clear out the Taliban, the vast majority of combat troops are pulling out. On Sept. 30, Afghanistan and the United States signed a bilateral security agreement that will bring the number of U.S. troops down from 30,000 to just under 10,000 by New Year's Eve.

The future of Afghanistan is uncertain; recent events in Iraq have shown that military engagement can continue long after the official withdrawal date. But for now, the focus of the 829th and other U.S. military engineer units is on shutting down America's longest war.

Kramer and Grob find themselves in a bewildering set of circumstances that neither soldier could have foreseen. "I think it's really neat that we turned the lights on in this war and now we're back turning them off," said Kramer.

The troops are part of an unprecedented effort to save as much as possible, to recycle and reclaim billions of dollars' worth of materiel used to wage a war.

At the close of World War I, World War II, the Korean War, and the Vietnam War, the U.S. military left behind trucks, helicopters, tents, and all kinds of equipment. World War II landing crafts continue to rust on Pacific islands. Huey helicopters tipped off aircraft carriers at the end of the Vietnam War remain at the bottom of the sea not far from what is now called Ho Chi Minh City.

Now the goal is to save as many U.S. taxpayer dollars spent on this conflict as possible -- and return the Afghan countryside to what it looked like before U.S. and coalition forces arrived.

"Buildings, walls, everything you see has to come down. Everything gets recycled, including wood and nails," said Capt. Kyle Gruber, commander of the 829th Engineers.

As U.S. troops leave, hundreds of military installations are shutting down, leaving a handful of bases in key areas like Kandahar, Jalalabad, Bagram, and Mazar-e-Sharif open for Afghan forces and a much smaller U.S. and coalition component. But even the large bases in those spots are reducing their footprint.

Some equipment will be given to Afghan security forces; building materials like plywood will be offered to Afghan civilians. Items that have outlived their usefulness or are so degraded that they're worthless will be destroyed.

And a lot of equipment will return to the United States, including mine-resistant ambush-protected (MRAP) combat trucks, which will be given to law enforcement agencies in the United States under a Defense Department program that has caused controversy recently following the protests in Ferguson, Missouri, as some question why communities need to arm their police departments with such massive firepower.

Now the wagon train of vehicles and equipment is reversing direction, flowing out of Afghanistan. It took years to build the American presence in Afghanistan; it will take months to break it down.

While ammunition, weapons, and sensitive equipment like radios will be taken back by air, most of the equipment destined for the United States is returning via ship. "It's like moving into a house, staying 12 years, and then moving out. And you've got all this stuff," said 1st Sgt. Russel Nyberg.

"Some things you keep," Gruber added. "Some you sell at a garage sale. Some you give to Goodwill."

It's quite a different task for the engineer company, because soldiers are more accustomed to building structures, not tearing them down. But the expertise from putting up buildings makes it easier to take them apart, because the Wisconsin engineers know how they're wired, where the load-bearing walls are located, and the quickest and safest ways to dismantle them.

That's not to say this is how engineers usually demolish structures. "Most buildings come down with either explosives or heavy equipment," said Sgt. Brett Lazich, 26. "We're taking these down with sledgehammers and privates."

On Sept. 11, 2001, Kramer, now 32 and a sergeant first class, had just started his freshman year at the University of Wisconsin, Stout, when someone in his dorm told him about the terrorist attacks. Most classes were canceled that day, and he watched the horror unfold on TV.

At the 829th Engineer Company's monthly training weekend in October, Kramer and other members of the unit were tipped off that a few of them might be mobilized to Afghanistan. The next month a dozen soldiers were told they were going.

"I was really ecstatic. I was calling all my friends," said Grob, an auto mechanic. "It was all new. Like, what's going to happen?"

The small team of tradesmen boarded a plane in mid-December and found out they weren't actually going to Afghanistan but to Uzbekistan to build housing for U.S. Special Forces soldiers. In February 2002, the Dirty Dozen -- as the group called itself -- was sent to Kandahar to do construction on what is now a sprawling base in southern Afghanistan -- Kandahar Airfield.

By the time they arrived, U.S. and coalition forces had taken over the airfield. The original base was built by the Soviets in the 1970s, and Grob was shocked at the shoddy workmanship.

The Wisconsin engineers helped build a combat support hospital and cafeteria, wired the airport for 110 volts, put in sewer and water lines, and installed a large septic field. The team returned home in June 2002.

Kramer and Grob didn't imagine when they returned to Wisconsin that a dozen years after turning the lights on, they're back to turn them off, a perfect bookend to U.S. combat involvement in Afghanistan.

Still, even as they pack up, there's an edgy nervousness among the Wisconsin soldiers, many of whom served in Iraq. They joke about having to go to that country next as the U.S. ramps up its battle against the Islamic State.

The soldiers hope for the best while focusing their energy on the task in front of them. Closing down a war is hot, filthy, tiring work. At Camp Marmal near Mazar-e-Sharif in north-central Afghanistan, Staff Sgt. Tom Hinman stood inside a skeleton as it cast long, thin shadows under the blazing sun.

"This used to be an aviation maintenance building, so there were Black Hawks, Chinooks, and Apaches in here," said Hinman, standing on the concrete pad with only thin steel tubing remaining overhead after the tent skin had been removed.

Around Hinman, soldiers clad in camouflage uniforms and hard hats used trucks and forklifts to pull down the building, piece by piece, putting sweat and muscle behind drills, hammers, and screwdrivers. The job was not easy; expanding pins and screws had been buffeted by wind, sand, and grit for years, and had been baked in the Afghan heat.

The Wisconsin soldiers have toiled in triple-digit heat since early June, typically starting early in the morning and finishing mid-afternoon. Because of the extreme conditions, they usually work 30 minutes and rest 30 minutes.

Each soldier guzzles 12 to 20 half-liter bottles of water and sports drinks each work shift. They wear gloves because metal tools and equipment left out in the sun can scorch skin. Power tools overheat, so the unit has resorted to keeping batteries in coolers.

Because of the threat of "green on blue" attacks -- a two-star general was recently killed by a gunman in an Afghan soldier's uniform -- squad members take turns pulling "guardian angel" duty each hour to watch over the squad's weapons and keep an eye on the work site's perimeter.

Once bustling areas that buzzed with aircraft, rows and rows of tents, dining facilities, and tactical operations centers are now ghost towns, some with tumbleweed and dust blowing through.

Soon the post office will close and soldiers serving here will be able to send and receive mail only once a week. Later the dining facilities, gym, USO center, and other amenities will shut down, and finally most of the U.S. soldiers will leave. More than 1,000 troops plus hundreds of civilian contractors were living at the base this summer, but their numbers will dwindle to a few hundred by year's end.

Thousands and thousands of sandbags -- which most Army privates and specialists have spent innumerable hours filling at some point in their careers -- are being returned to the terrain where they originated. Electricians are pulling miles of wires from buildings.

"They're tearing down basically a small city, and that's incredibly hard," said Col. Paul S. Sarat Jr., commander of U.S. forces at Camp Marmal. "If they can recover 50 percent of the equipment, it pays for itself to get that back. But because of the cleverness of the unit, they're saving 80 percent, which is great during hard fiscal times."

It all feels strange to Grob and Kramer, who vividly recall Afghanistan at the start of the war. "I remember when I was here in '01-'02 -- it was so hard to get building materials. And now everything is just laying around," said Grob. "The other day I opened a [shipping container], and it was filled with plumbing materials. I thought, 'Oh, I really could have used these 12 years ago.'"

Meg Jones’s trip to Afghanistan to embed with Wisconsin National Guard troops was supported by the Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting.

A version of this article was previously published in the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel.

Photo: Meghan Dhaliwal