Like so many other places in the era of Noma, Tuome is tastefully spartan in appearance. Its two small dining rooms are furnished with small tables set with small menus printed in small type. In terms of glitz and glamour, Tuome falls somewhere between a yoga studio and Thoreau’s cabin. You have probably eaten in dozens of rooms like this in the past few years, and eaten dishes that look like the ones that the chef, Thomas Chen, is sending from the kitchen. Once the meal begins, though, it becomes clear that Mr. Chen has originality to spare and a clear, fresh point of view, particularly when he interprets Chinese cuisine. He has terrific control over salt, spices, texture and contrast, weaving them together until you ask, why hasn’t anyone done this before? — PETE WELLS
Price
$$$. All Major Credit Cards
Atmosphere
Spartan, brick-lined, dark, with bare wood chairs and bare metal bar stools.
Alcohol
Most bottles are under $60 and can be ordered by the glass; the list is both esoteric and approachable.
Open
Every Day
Sound Level
Moderate.
Wine List
Most bottles are less than $60 and can be ordered by the glass; the list is both esoteric and approachable.
Reservations
Recommended
Wheelchair Access
The entrance is one step up from the sidewalk. The restroom is not wheelchair accessible.
Recommended Dishes
Deviled egg; oxtail spring roll; octopus with pork XO sauce; chicken with charred lettuce; Berkshire pork belly; brussels sprouts; rice with kale and Chinese sausage.
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