100 Favorite Dishes, No. 15: Veal Bolognese with Pappardelle at Urbano

Thumbnail image for Urbano Cafe Bolognese.jpg
Catherine Downes
Comfort food of the highest order.
To prepare for this fall's Best of Dallas® 2014 issue, we're counting down (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes. If there's a dish you think we need to try, leave it in the comments, or email me.

Comfort food means different things to different people. Most of the time it's hearty dishes that warm you from the inside out -- soups, stews and fried things all fit comfortably into the classification of comfort food. Another requirement, though, is that the dish resonates with something from the past -- in addition to being filling, it also has to evoke certain memories that are comforting on a spiritual level. This is how food soothes us.

But some dishes are so damn comforting it doesn't matter what you grew up on. And while I'm sure Italian people who grew up with a nona rolling out pasta in a kitchen perfumed with simmering tomatoes will especially appreciate the bolognese at Urbano Cafe, this is comfort food that easily speaks to everyone.

Bolognese isn't just another meat sauce. It's a careful balance of delicate, ground veal and vegetables, including carrots and tomatoes. A good bolognese (and this is a good one) is cooked down till it's so thick you could eat it with a fork, a task made easier when it's served with tender pappardelle noodles.

That it's served in a cozy neighborhood cafe helps, as does the fact that the cafe is BYOB. Bring your favorite bottle of vino from home to turn this dish into an occasion, and if you've forgotten your bottle, Jimmy's has plenty for sale next door.

No. 100: Pastrami Egg Rolls at Blind Butcher
No. 99: Chicken-fried Steak at Tom's Burgers and Grill
No. 98: Pasta with Uni Butter at Nonna
No. 97: Camarón en Agua Chile at La Palapas
No. 96: The Wings at Lakewood Landing
No. 94: Chicken Kebab at Afrah
No. 93: Trompo Tacos at Bachman Lake
No. 92: Fish and Chips at 20 Feet
No. 91: Canelés at Village Baking Co.
No. 90: Banh Mi from La Me
No. 88: The Burgers at Off-Site Kitchen
No. 87: The White Album at Spoon
No. 86: Ramen at Tei An
No. 85: Tacos at Revolver Taco
No. 84: Stuffed Chicken Wings at Sakhuu
No. 83: Korean Fried Chicken at Bonchon
No. 82: Grilled Branzino at Tei Tei Robata
No. 81: The Toddfather at Cattleack Barbecue
No. 80: The Biryanis at Chennai
No. 79: Shish Tawook at Qariah
No. 78: Arepes at Zaguan
No. 77: Goat Momo at Everest Restaurant
No. 76: Steak Tartar at Gemma
No. 75: Escabeche at Joyce and Gigi's
No. 74: Spicy Fish in Oil at Royal Sichuan
No. 73: Pupusas at La Pasadita
No. 72: The Kathi Roll at Simply Dosa
No. 71: The Chicken Wings at Teppo
No. 70: Cheesesteak at Truck Yard
No. 69: Chicken and Waffles at Jonathon's
No. 68: Birria Tacos at Los Torres Taqueria
No. 67: Bulgogi Cheesesteak at Say Kimchi
No. 66: Suadero Tacos at La Banqueta
No. 65: Brian Luscher's Post Oak Red Hot
No. 64: Banana Flower Salad at Mot Hai Ba
No. 63: Cinco Leches Cake At Mesero Miguel
No. 62: Cabrito a la Parilla at El Ranchito
No. 61: Reuben at Kuby's
No. 60: Plain Cheese Pizza Cooked Extra Crispy at Zoli's
No. 59: Enmoladas at Mesa
No. 58: Pig's Head at CBD Provisions
No. 57: Rib "Sandwich" at Baby Back Shak
No. 56: Beef Noodle Soup at Monkey King
No. 55: The Nachos at Spiral Diner
No. 54: Elotes, Everywhere
No. 53: The Popeye At Green Grocer
No. 52: The Cuban at International Bakery
No. 51: Rush Patisserie's Croissant
No. 50: Kitfo From Sheba's Ethiopian Kitchen
No. 49: Beer at Craft and Growler
No. 48: Pastor Tacos at El Rincon
No. 47: Banh Mi From Nammi
No. 46: Beef Fajitas From Mariano's
No. 45: Italian Combo from Carbone's
No. 44: The Brisket at Pecan Lodge
No. 43: Chicken-Fried Steak at Ellen's Southern Kitchen
No. 42: Carnitas Tacos at Taqueria Y Carneseria Guanajuato
No. 41: Lamb Burger at LARK
No. 40: Regina Margherita At Cane Rosso
No. 39: Barbacoa At Barbacoa Estilo Hidalgo
No. 38: The Peace 'Stachio at Hypnotic Donuts
No. 37: Nasi Lemak at Kampong
No. 36: A Rotisserie Chicken Taco at Velvet Taco
No. 35: The Burger At Boulevardier
No. 34: Surfers On Acid At Local Oak
No. 33: Bread Pudding at Sissy's
No. 32: Pelmeni at the Russian Banya
No. 31: Loukoumathes at Greek Fest
No. 30: The Charcuterie Plate at FT33
No. 29: Short Rib Grilled Cheese at East Hampton
No. 28: The Fried Bologna Sandwich at Maple and Motor
No. 27: The Pastrami Sandwich at the Whistling Pig
No. 26: Bacon-Encrusted Bone Marrow at Knife
No. 25: Meatloaf at Stock and Barrel
No. 24: The Reuben at Cock and Bull
No. 23: Causa Limena at San Salvaje
No. 22: Fish Tacos at TJ's
No. 21: The Cuban at ¡C. Señor!
No. 20: The Smoked Salmon at Zen Sushi
No. 19: The Ham Sandwich at Vagabond
No. 18: Steak and Eggs at Meddlesome Moth
No. 17: Campechano at El Come Taco
No. 16: The Chicken Scratch at Chicken Scratch

Location Info

Urbano Cafe

1410 N. Fitzhugh Ave., Dallas, TX

Category: Restaurant


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2 comments
notallofeastdallasislakewood
notallofeastdallasislakewood

Thanks for turning me on to this dish last year.  Had been to Urbano numerous times, but for some reason never tried it. 

CitizenKane
CitizenKane

A nice spot to enjoy a late lunch - service until 3 pm.

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