Stephan Pyles’ flagship restaurant, opened in 2006, still has a nice buzz, but the cooking isn’t as exciting or vibrant as it once was. Signature dishes, such as a tamale tart with roast garlic custard and crab, a Southwestern-style Caesar salad and “heaven and hell” cake, are reliably good. The menu changes seasonally, but it’s sometimes late in doing so, missing opportunities for hitting what’s great at the moment. The service isn’t what it should be at one of the city’s most important restaurants. The exception is the wine service, which is excellent, as is the far-reaching wine list. Closed Sunday. Full bar. Leslie Brenner/Guide
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