Albany is a chronically underrated city. It was the first European settlement in Western Australia and should have been the capital, but was annexed by the British in 1791. It's physically lovely, with the best natural harbour in Australia outside Sydney and lots of remnants of Victorian architecture. It was a very conservative town back in the day, but it has changed. There's a growing eco-tourism industry and lots of younger people are choosing to move there.
My family moved to Albany from Perth when I was 12. We were only there for three years but it had a profound effect on me as a person and, later, as a writer. I think it's something to do with its wildness. For a young person who felt claustrophobic being surrounded by strangers, it was reassuring to know that within minutes I could be out in the bush or on a beach with no other footprints in the sand.
Some locals say the top of Mount Clarence is the essence of the area. It's the site of the Anzac Desert Mounted Corp war memorial and the view is incredible – you can see all the islands and bays stretching out right around you. But for me the heart of the city is the Princess Royal Harbour, where all the whalers and tuna fisherman used to be. These days a lot of the old harpooners have become environmentalists. You'll meet them sometimes working as tour guides at Whale World, a museum in the former whaling station.
Whale-watching is something every visitor should do. Boat trips go from the harbour but you can see them by just standing on Cheynes Beach, 42 miles east of Albany, or from the Shelley Beach Lookout on West Cape Howe to the west of town. The whaling station closed down in 1978 and the last few times I've been back I have seen more whales in a week than I did in the three years I lived here. The best time to see them is in winter (June – August), when they come up from the Antarctic and migrate to the tropics.
The beaches are one of the most beautiful things about Albany. The sand is so fine that if you scuff your feet along at night, you can see sparks shoot off your shoes. Ocean Beach near the town of Denmark, is best for surfing and only a half-hour drive from the city. For swimming, I'd recommend Middleton Beach. Whales come so close to the shore that a few years ago someone was fined for swimming up and climbing on to the back of one.
The Rocks on Grey Street West is a great place to stay as a treat. It's a really flash B&B in a grand Victorian building that was the old governor's residence overlooking the harbour. The owners really know how to look after people. The White Star Hotel on Stirling Terrace used to be a "bloodhouse" – a dodgy pub with a violent reputation – but now it's a friendly place where they brew their own, very serviceable beers. When I meet up with friends we might go for a drink there, then see a show at the Albany Entertainment Centre before ending up at The Venice (179 York Street). It's a lively but homely Italian and is the best place to eat local seafood – from blue swimmer crabs to queen snapper. I'd go for the spaghetti and mussels.
If I could change one thing it would be the weather. The Minang Noongar Aboriginal people call Albany Kinjarling, meaning the place of rain. It's a good place to go if you want to visit Australia but don't fancy being brutalised by the heat.
A tip: be wary when sitting on blowholes. As kids we loved to go to Torndirrup national park, a few miles south of Albany, where there are granite rocks with crevices that reach down to the sea below. When the waves come in, water comes spurting out of the top of them, and as it's a raging ocean you never know how strong the force is going to be. If you sit on one, be prepared to end up with your clothes flapping and your hair straight up in the air.
Tim Winton's latest novel, Eyrie, is out now (Picador, £16.99). To order a copy from the Guardian Bookshop for £13.49, including UK p&p, call 0330 333 6846 or visit guardianbookshop.co.uk
