Tucumcari has always been our overnight stop on the way from Texas into Santa Fe/ Albuquerque. Lena's Cafe on Main Street is the place for your southwestern breakfast - ask for anything on the menu to come 'Christmas' (red and green chilli - the answer to New Mexico's state 'question.') Santa Fe is a must on the way into its southern neighbour. Aztec Cafe on Aztec Street is the place for coffee and local gossip in the morning. Pull into the Double Take emporium at the corner for a broad selection of pre-loved cowboy boots and southwestern chic. Just around the corner is the Cowgirl, *the* spot for late-night drinks and camaraderie, or try El Farol at the top end of Canyon Road. Canyon Road is the city's destination for art galleries galore (most offer wine evenings), and The Compound on Canyon Road is the place for a long lunch if the Guardian is paying. If not, head downtown to Cafe Pasqual's to shoulder-up with the locals for voluminous plates of local fare. In the afternoon, head up to the city's overlook via a winding path at Hillside Park, best toward sunset. Once back down, evening aperitifs are best taken in the courtyard at La Casa Sena, which you'll find behind an ancient arcade on East Palace Avenue, just around the corner from the Palace of the Governor's. You're more likely than not to spot film celebs sitting next to you under the large trees and fairy lights. The newly opened Palace Restaurant, also just off the square, is a great choice if you're looking for throw-back western ambiance. A warning: the city's streets all but roll up at 10pm - follow the crowds and noise to hidden drinking holes under the immense, star-sprinkled sky.