Derby Arms, Longridge, Lancashire: hotel review

When we travel, we Guardianistas favour independent hotels, right? We want to give our money to those plucky owner-operators who are bringing a little personality to the dead-eyed world of corporate hospitality. Indies, we incant, beat big chains every time.

Yet some small properties suck. There are rich hobby-owners who have no stomach for the daily grind of, you know, guests; and there are pub landlords who view their bedrooms as a lucrative afterthought. Conversely, there are conscientious owners of multiple sites who sweat every detail. It is a minefield.

The Derby Arms is the latest pub from Lancashire’s fast-expanding Seafood Pub Company, and its first with accommodation. Founded by Joycelyn Neve and her dad Chris SPC is, on this evidence, striking an accomplished balance between genuine warmth and smooth professionalism. Will it be able to maintain that over a mooted 20 sites? Time will tell, but right now, in the Derby Arms, you have a pub where the area manager’s wife makes dog treats for the bar – this is walking country, so they don’t mind a wet dog or a muddy boot – yet the staff’s professionalism suggests systematic training.

I initially thought I was being love-bombed because I was from the Guardian, but after a bit of ear-wigging (the place was surprisingly busy for a blustery Wednesday night), I realised everyone else was getting the same treatment – and in an honest, unscripted, openly chatty way.

If the staff have a real spark about them, the pub itself is smart and solid. There are minor outbreaks of jazzy tartan and too many scatter cushions, but overall it is sober – handsome rather than pretty, as a country pub should be. The low lighting is seductive, but you can still read the menu.

The Ribble Valley is something of a good food hub and the fish-focused Derby Arms – its menu a global grab-bag of trendy and traditional dishes – holds its own. Bacon and salt cod croquettes; whole Morecambe Bay plaice with shrimps in a garlicky, lemon-butter sauce; and a chocolate and caramel pot with a salted peanut praline were all accurately cooked, well-seasoned and delivered their flavours in an assertive, balanced way. In short, this was unusually sure-footed, mid-market pub food. The real ale choice (from £3.50) is conservative, but Copper Dragon’s elegant Golden Pippin was in perfect condition.

Upstairs, the reassuring competence continued. There was rather a Barratt showhome vibe to my room – it felt very new and hardly fizzed with character – but it was spacious and everything in it (twin-head shower, Wi-fi, internet TV) felt solid, durable and idiot-proof. The tea-tray (no biscuits!) was poor, but Orla Kiely toiletries compensated.

There are beautiful walks in every direction where you can work off the calories. You can head out around Longridge from the Derby Arms or even take a Tolkien tour – the author is said to have based parts of Middle Earth on the area – if that is your Baggins. My tip? Head into the Forest of Bowland, an area of outstanding natural beauty, and explore the Trough of Bowland from Dunsop Bridge. Or just curl up and recharge at the breezily efficient Derby Arms. It may be part of a chain, but it shows no visible strain.
• Accommodation was provided by the Derby Arms, Chipping Road, Longridge (01772 782370, seafoodpubcompany.com), doubles from £85 B&B. Travel between Manchester and Preston was provided by First TransPennine Express (tpexpress.co.uk)

Ask a local

Seafood Pub Company MD Joycelyn Neve

• Walk up Jeffrey Hill on Longridge Fell: “A must, this one. From up there you have the most spectacular view of the Forest of Bowland.”

• Visit Downham: “Sat below Pendle Hill, which is a backdrop second to none, this village is virtually untouched since the 16th century. It’s owned by Lord and Lady Clitheroe, who open their beautiful gardens at Downham Hall on selected dates.”

• Eat at the Freemasons at Wiswell: “This is my favourite place for fine dining. Pub-wise, I like the Parkers Arms at Newton-by-Bowland. There is also a cute little wine bar in Longridge called Billy’s.”

• Eat more at Tony’s Top Chippy, Longridge: “Fab place and very busy. Great fish – supplied by my dad!”

• Family fun: “The visitor centre at Mrs Dowson’s Ice Cream, where kids can feed the calves, ride peddle tractors and lots more, is very popular. There’s also the Bowland Wild Boar Park.”