Counter Culture: a tribute to the American diner waitress – in pictures
In America, waitresses are central to the diner experience, dispensing wisdom and wit as well as coffee and apple pie. Author and photographer Candacy Taylor visited more than 44 US cities collecting stories from ‘lifers’ who have been serving tables for up to 60 years. Her ebook Counter Culture: the American Coffee Shop Waitress is out now
• 10 roadside diners in the US – a trucker’s guide
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Dolores Jeanpierre, Ole’s Waffle Shop, Alameda, California Dolores started waitressing in 1974 and was the first black waitress to work in Alameda. She was voted “Best Waitress” in the city by Alameda Magazine in 2006
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Miss Roxie Burton, Florida Avenue Grill, Washington DC “You can’t find too many places like ours. We’ve been here for over 60 years.” Miss Roxie Burton has been working in restaurants for almost 45 years. Even at 80 she still works about five to six days a week
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Renee Donati, Harry’s Plaza Cafe, Santa Barbara, California “When one customer couldn’t keep his hands to himself, I took that coffee pot and poured the coffee right in his lap.” Harry’s has been serving locals since 1968
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Rachel Lelchuck, Louis’ Restaurant, San Francisco “Waitressing is my world. I made an art out of it.” Rachel worked at Louis’ for 55 years and never took a vacation. She was forced to retire due to a debilitating case of asthma at 82, otherwise, she said she would still be working
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The Truck Inn, Nevada A sign made from a real truck alongside Interstate 80 east of Reno, for the Truck Inn. The restaurant closed a few years ago, but the sign is still up
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Pat Dermatis, Sip & Bite, Baltimore, Maryland “When you walk through the door your regulars are just sitting there, waiting for you. When someone else tries to serve them, they say, ‘Just give me coffee. I’m waiting for Pat.’” Pat, pictured with one of her favourite regulars, “Cowboy”, started waitressing at the Sip & Bite at the age of 16.
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The Mayfair, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania The Mayfair has been serving locals since 1932. It’s also a favorite among US presidents, including President Obama.
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Sharon Bruno, Betsy’s Pancake House, New Orleans, Louisiana “We walk about nine and a half miles every day.” Betsy’s Pancake House was one of the first restaurants to open in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina.
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Betty Murphy, Mastoris Diner: Bordentown, New Jersey Dishing out hearty portions and fast service in this classic New Jersey staple. All photographs: Candacy Taylor/Counter Culture
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