For years, Phimploy Likitsansook kept a secret menu at her Hell’s Kitchen restaurant Wondee Siam, written only in Thai and featuring specialties rarely found in Manhattan. At her latest venture, in Elmhurst, Queens, there’s no need to be coy: the borough is home to more than half the city’s Thai population, with the largest concentration in the bocks surrounding Paet Rio. Ms. Likitsansook has brought over a few of her Wondee secrets, but the execution is more focused, the contours of flavor more distinct, and a few dishes approach greatness. — Ligaya Mishan

Price

$$. Mastercard, Visa, and Discover

Wheelchair Access

Dining room is one step up from sidewalk. Restroom is not equipped with hand rail.

Recommended Dishes

Miang kha-na (dried pork with broccoli leaves), khua kling (minced pork salad), khao soi (curry soup noodles), yam pla duk fu (crispy shredded catfish salad), phat phak bung mu krop (crispy pork with watercress), pla yam mango (crispy fish with mango), rad kaphrao (duck with holy basil).

Open

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Alcohol

Full bar

Reservations

Recommended

Also Available

Delivery and Takeout

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