Edition: U.S. / Global

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Dining & Wine

Jenny Kruger

The way wine is used as a character device for women on TV tells us a lot about how it is viewed in popular culture.

Restaurant Review: Blue Hill in Greenwich Village

Dan Barber’s long search for flavor at his farm is evident downtown, where each new ingredient might be the best example of its kind you’ve tasted.

Is That Cut a Tri-Tip or What?

The names of cuts can cause confusion at the meat counter, but a move to standardize names may help. (Article plus video.)

What's in It?

The Chocolate Halloween Candy in the Trick-or-Treat Bag

Not only are chocolate makers getting more creative with ingredients, they are also experimenting with packaging by embracing “the smorgasbord effect.” (Article plus video.)

Rock and Rye Returns to the Mix

A blend of rye whiskey and rock candy syrup may prove enticing again.

Eat

In Cooking, Good Ingredients Gone ‘Bad’ Can Still Be Delicious

Mixing old foods with new to make everything from cakes and corn breads to chilaquiles.

T Magazine

The Globalization of Caviar

Since sturgeon fishing was banned in the Caspian Sea, Paris’s top purveyors of the delicacy have turned to producers from as far afield as California, Uruguay and China.

Garlic Aioli With Roasted Vegetables

Turn a humble vegetable platter into an opulent side dish at a dinner party with Provençal aioli. (Article plus video.)

A Velvet Touch With Chicken

This Chinese technique will help skinless-boneless breasts retain their moist texture.

Enrique Olvera Is Opening Cosme in the Flatiron District

The innovative Mexican chef is offering a menu that veers away from tradition.

Raaka Chocolate in Red Hook, Takeout Cakes From Telepan Local and More Food News

Telepan cakes to take home, Raaka Chocolate in Red Hook and how to use whey.

Flickering Lights, Strange Music and a Ghost at a Brooklyn Bar. Maybe.

Employees at the Sweetwater Restaurant and Bar in Brooklyn debate whether or not Anna Smith, a onetime neighborhood fixture who died in 2003, haunts her former property.

The Final Toasts at a Gritty, Beloved Miami Tavern

Before dawn on Sunday, after decades as one of Miami’s oldest and most rollicking taverns, Tobacco Road called it quits.

WD-50’s Closing Days

Special menus in the final two weeks will commemorate the greatest hits at Wylie Dufresne’s restaurant.

Recipe Lab

Easy as Pie

Tarte tatin — not apple pie — is the single best thing you can make with fall’s most plentiful and alluring fruit.

Belém Journal

Daring Fare, From the Amazon’s Mouth to Yours

A Brazilian chef who passed up the glamour of São Paulo is helping change his country’s cuisine with the help of flavors from the rain forest.

Hungry City | The Bao

Hungry City: The Bao in the East Village

The new restaurant features soup dumplings, or xiao long bao, that are near perfect.

Don’t Tell Grandma

When Massimo Bottura is in the kitchen, the Italian dishes aren’t quite what Grandma used to make.

In the Garden

An Apple a Day, for 47 Years

Dan Bussey has tracked down 17,000 varieties dating from Colonial times, the better to guarantee a world way beyond Red Delicious.

Op-Ed | Mark Bittman

(Only) Two Rules for a Good Diet

A powerful personal food policy doesn’t have to rely on corporate benevolence or the government getting things right — thank goodness.

Grace’s Marketplace Moves, Pumpkin-Shaped Pasta and More Food News

A new home for Grace’s Marketplace; white chocolate skulls; pumpkin-shaped pasta shells; the Bread Project; and a home cider kit.

Wine School

Your Next Lesson: Champagne

Let’s examine Champagne as a wine, an agricultural product made of grapes and intended not as the life of the party but to be consumed with food at a meal.

Chianti Classico’s Emotional Tug

Long before most Americans knew anything about Italian wine or food, there was Chianti.

Cooking
Christina Holmes for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Pamela Duncan Silver.

Sometimes you have to bring the aesthetics of restaurant food into the home.

Green Tomatoes Get a ‘Go’ Signal From Lamb

Unripened tomatoes don’t need to be fried to be enjoyed. (Article plus video.)

A Savory Potato Tart Recipe With a Relaxed Attitude on Starch

What’s wrong with meals that combine potatoes with pasta or pastry?

For Full-Flavored Schnitzel, Try Pork

Pork schnitzel is more economical and forgiving than veal, and better suited to weeknight cooking. (Article plus video.)

The Vietnamese Noodle Salad Known as Bun Bo Xao

The warm noodle salad is a quick stir-fry dish.

Grilled Cheese? Try a Tartine Recipe Instead

The tartine is Paris’s gift to lunchtime.

A Good Appetite

Grain Bowls: How to Make Your Own

Layers of flavors, textures and colors make a grain bowl a one-dish adventure.

Restaurants and News
Morgan Ione Yeager for The New York Times

A tremendous amount of thought and effort has gone into the food, drinks and design at the chef Ryan Tate’s farm-to-table restaurant, Blenheim.

Washington Has More on Its Plate

The capital is rapidly gaining in cozy neighborhood dining spots with distinctive food.

Hungry City | Paet Rio

A Warm Feeling Spreads in Queens

Paet Rio in Elmhurst, Queens, isn’t shy about sharing Thai cuisine’s often scorching splendor.

T Magazine

In the Kitchen With Andrew Carmellini at Little Park

The chef lets T into his next TriBeCa restaurant and shares a recipe for beetroot tartar, which he’s testing for the space’s inaugural meal: a benefit dinner for the Lunchbox Fund next week.

Hungry City | Arepa Lady

The Comfort of Her Embrace

The Arepa Lady of Jackson Heights, Queens, has expanded from her street cart to a small restaurant two blocks away.

Chefs Fight for Songbird

Celebrity chefs are waging a campaign to bring the ortolan, banished from menus in France since 1999, back to the table.

New Zagat Guide Has a Few Surprises

Benjamin Steak House and Sea Fire Grill received high scores in the 2015 Zagat Guide to New York City restaurants, released on Wednesday.

Restaurant Review | Élan

Shedding the Burden of Tradition

The chef David Waltuck has moved on from Chanterelle and is writing a new script, filled with surprises, at Élan.

The Chicken Wings Boom

Chefs are turning a cheap bar snack into a culinary obsession.

Vic’s Is the Latest From Vicki Freeman and Marc Meyer

The husband-and-wife team has redone Five Points, turning it into a new restaurant with a name that pays homage to their Vix Cafe.

Noma’s New Pastry Chef Is Bronx-Born Malcolm Livingston II

Malcolm Livingston II, who has spent five years creating desserts at the chef Wylie Dufresne’s WD-50, will move to Denmark not long after WD-50 closes at the end of November.

It’s Alive! And It Grows Into a Jack-o’-Lantern

With the strangely shaped “pumpkinstein,” a California farmer found a way to carve himself a piece of the $7 billion in business Halloween now generates.

Drinks
The third-generation distiller Guillaume Drouin, of Calvados Christian Drouin.
Emli Bendixen for The New York Times

The third-generation distiller Guillaume Drouin, of Calvados Christian Drouin.

A new wave of producers is bringing Calvados, an apple brandy, into the 21st century.

The Pour

Wine Lists That Respect a Budget

These 10 Manhattan restaurants offer good bottles without Champagne prices.

A Shot and a Beer: The Boilermaker Stages a Comeback

The boilermaker, as the classic combo is often called, has elbowed its way into dozens of bars where the bartenders know their aperitifs from their digestifs.

A Quiet Drink

A Stage Set for Savoring Autumn in New York

Skylark, a Midtown rooftop bar that’s as nice inside as out, boasts flavorful cocktails, a musical soundtrack that allows for conversation and panoramic views.

Sydney Journal

In Hard-Drinking Sydney, Rowdy Beer Barns Make Way for Sleek Bars

Changes in drinking laws have cleared the way for a gentrification of establishments in a city known for its beer-swilling pubs.

Restaurant Cocktails That Aim Too High

New restaurants in New York City are offering cocktail lists that are becoming more creative, and not in a good way.

How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Featured Recipes
Tomato Fruit Salad
Baked Potatoes
Hanjan Chicken Wings
Risotto With Milk
Pumpkin Bisque
Onion Confit
Fruit Galette
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Wines of The Times

Good Barolo Comes to Those Who Wait

Made entirely of the nebbiolo grape, this wine demands years in the cellar. But these days, who has the time?

Fall Restaurant Preview

Restaurant Openings

A Tip Sheet for a Season of Surprises

Florence Fabricant lists the most interesting and important restaurants that will open soon.

Bar Openings

New Bars Offer Barrels, Beer and Boilermakers

This fall, rooftop, basement and vault are among the sites of the city’s new drinking dens.

Hotel Dining, Updated Chinese and More

Counting down the surprises in New York’s new crop of restaurants.

What to Watch For

Culinary Trends in New York

The hot dishes, drinks and other details to watch for in restaurants this fall.

INTERACTIVE MAP: New York Health Department Restaurant Ratings Map

Interactive map of health violations at restaurants in New York

101 Places to Find Great Coffee in New York

The number of serious coffee shops in New York has exploded. Enter your address to find the shops closest to you.

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