Tacoqueta

Tacoqueta’s inviting facade.

Clarendon Drive east of Hampton Road is a hodgepodge of auto shops, ramshackle churches in converted frame houses, food business, such as paleterias, Aunt Stella’s Snow Cones and taquerias. Among the latter, the newest is Tacoqueta, taking a clever name meant to lure you into the small strip shared with a hair salon. Almost as alluring is the 20 tacos for $19.99. Almost, because with only three tacos (plus weekend barbacoa) to choose from there isn’t much variety for order of that size. What there is an abundance of, though, is excellent service. The ladies behind the counter and working the griddle will answer your questions without hesitation—yes, they have fresh tortillas but only for the menudo—and charm you with a smile while they await your order.

Departing from my usual tacos-only selection, I went with the No. 1 special. The former comes with light, yellow Mexican rice and manteca-bolstered silky refried beans punctuated with minute pintos.

Tacoqueta’s zippy salsas.

The chile-barbed barbacoa was the best of the lot. Before I got to that preparation, though, I went for the carne asada and non-trompo pastor. Each taco flirted with rubbery consistency as it cooled and were anything more than decent. That’s not saying they were bad.

Tacoqueta’s No. 1 Special.

In a pinch, Tacoqueta’s tacos will do just fine as holdovers while you wait for your order of sugar-slapping air-conditioning treats from Oak Cliff staple Aunt Stella’s Snow Cones. Just order from the walk-up window, and go. But remember if you’re not in line by 9 p.m., you’re not getting your Pink Lady.