Edition: U.S. / Global

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Dining & Wine

Restaurant Review | Blenheim

Restaurant Review: Blenheim in the West Village

Morgan Ione Yeager for The New York Times

A tremendous amount of thought and effort has gone into the food, drinks and design at the chef Ryan Tate’s farm-to-table restaurant, Blenheim.

Don’t Tell Grandma

When Massimo Bottura is in the kitchen, the Italian dishes aren’t quite what Grandma used to make.

Recipe Lab

Easy as Pie

Tarte tatin — not apple pie — is the single best thing you can make with fall’s most plentiful and alluring fruit.

New Zagat Guide Has a Few Surprises

Benjamin Steak House and Sea Fire Grill received high scores in the 2015 Zagat Guide to New York City restaurants, released on Wednesday.

Op-Ed | Mark Bittman

(Only) Two Rules for a Good Diet

A powerful personal food policy doesn’t have to rely on corporate benevolence or the government getting things right — thank goodness.

Washington Has More on Its Plate

The capital is rapidly gaining in cozy neighborhood dining spots with distinctive food.

Green Tomatoes Get a ‘Go’ Signal From Lamb

Unripened tomatoes don’t need to be fried to be enjoyed. (Article plus video.)

Sydney Journal

In Hard-Drinking Sydney, Rowdy Beer Barns Make Way for Sleek Bars

Changes in drinking laws have cleared the way for a gentrification of establishments in a city known for its beer-swilling pubs.

Vic’s Is the Latest From Vicki Freeman and Marc Meyer

The husband-and-wife team has redone Five Points, turning it into a new restaurant with a name that pays homage to their Vix Cafe.

Grace’s Marketplace Moves, Pumpkin-Shaped Pasta and More Food News

A new home for Grace’s Marketplace; white chocolate skulls; pumpkin-shaped pasta shells; the Bread Project; and a home cider kit.

30 Years of Anger From Waiting on Tables Boils Over in a Comedy Show

Brad Zimmerman traded his restaurant misery for “My Son the Waiter, a Jewish Tragedy,” writing about the frustrations and absurdities of dealing with diners in New York City.

Wines of The Times

Good Barolo Comes to Those Who Wait

Made entirely of the nebbiolo grape, this wine demands years in the cellar. But these days, who has the time?

A Savory Potato Tart Recipe With a Relaxed Attitude on Starch

What’s wrong with meals that combine potatoes with pasta or pastry?

Hungry City | Paet Rio

A Warm Feeling Spreads in Queens

Paet Rio in Elmhurst, Queens, isn’t shy about sharing Thai cuisine’s often scorching splendor.

Chefs Fight for Songbird

Celebrity chefs are waging a campaign to bring the ortolan, banished from menus in France since 1999, back to the table.

Advertising

Whole Foods Asks Shoppers to Consider a Value Proposition

The market chain is trying to reignite sales growth and fend off increased competition by promoting the social values it follows in stocking its shelves.

In Normandy, Young Ambition Stirs a Traditional Brandy

A new wave of producers is bringing Calvados, an apple brandy, into the 21st century.

Open

Back to the Cutting Board

Williams-Sonoma returns to the town that inspired its namesake and offers cooking classes and an edible garden.

The Vietnamese Noodle Salad Known as Bun Bo Xao

The warm noodle salad is a quick stir-fry dish.

In Umbria, an Italian Olive Oil Worth the Accolades

Umbrian oil makes up only about 2 percent of Italy’s olive oil production but wins a far larger proportion of awards.

Wine School

Chianti Classico’s Emotional Tug

Long before most Americans knew anything about Italian wine or food, there was Chianti.

Your Next Lesson: Champagne

Let’s examine Champagne as a wine, an agricultural product made of grapes and intended not as the life of the party but to be consumed with food at a meal.

Cooking
Christina Holmes for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Penelope Bouklas.

Dressed to your taste, the baked potato makes a nice side to a slice of prime rib or a meal in itself.

For Full-Flavored Schnitzel, Try Pork

Pork schnitzel is more economical and forgiving than veal, and better suited to weeknight cooking. (Article plus video.)

A Twist Adds Complexity to a Pasta Dish

Mark Bittman’s take on a great pasta dish for the fall, pasta alla Norma.

Grilled Cheese? Try a Tartine Recipe Instead

The tartine is Paris’s gift to lunchtime.

A Good Appetite

Grain Bowls: How to Make Your Own

Layers of flavors, textures and colors make a grain bowl a one-dish adventure.

City Kitchen

Cooking With Cauliflower, a Feisty Vegetable That Can Take a Punch

Now that it’s in vogue, here are a few truths about cauliflower: It can stand up to bold seasoning and high heat.

A Good Appetite

Jammy Goodness From the Inside Out

Spreading the jam on top of a scone is all well and good, but baking it in is even better.

Chicken Fingers Are Off the Menu

Now that my daughter has become a vegetarian, I fear I am doomed to turn into the dreaded Restaurant Mom, tailoring meal planning to each of my children’s fancies.

Heirloom Popcorn Helps a Snack Reinvent Itself

Heirloom varieties you pop yourself deliver more flavor than those store-bought bags.

Restaurants and News

The Chicken Wings Boom

Dina Litovsky for The New York Times

Chefs are turning a cheap bar snack into a culinary obsession.

Restaurant Review | Élan

Shedding the Burden of Tradition

The chef David Waltuck has moved on from Chanterelle and is writing a new script, filled with surprises, at Élan.

What Happens When Second Graders Are Treated to a Seven-Course, $220 Tasting Meal

Students from P.S. 295 in Brooklyn learn the fine points of French cuisine at one of New York’s poshest restaurants.

Hungry City | Arepa Lady

The Comfort of Her Embrace

The Arepa Lady of Jackson Heights, Queens, has expanded from her street cart to a small restaurant two blocks away.

Food & Wine Magazine Inspires Chefs Club Restaurant

Chefs Club by Food & Wine will bring a rotating roster of guest chefs to Manhattan.

Noma’s New Pastry Chef Is Bronx-Born Malcolm Livingston II

Malcolm Livingston II, who has spent five years creating desserts at the chef Wylie Dufresne’s WD-50, will move to Denmark not long after WD-50 closes at the end of November.

It’s Alive! And It Grows Into a Jack-o’-Lantern

With the strangely shaped “pumpkinstein,” a California farmer found a way to carve himself a piece of the $7 billion in business Halloween now generates.

The Gansevoort Market, Gooseneck Barnacles and More Food News in New York

Gooseneck barnacles; super quick pasta; Gansevoort Market opens in stages; designer aprons; and a knife for bartenders.

Drinks
Tommy Quimby, a bartender at Trick Dog in San Francisco, pairs Tecate beer with a shot of Mandarine Napoléon orange liqueur.
Craig Lee for The New York Times

Tommy Quimby, a bartender at Trick Dog in San Francisco, pairs Tecate beer with a shot of Mandarine Napoléon orange liqueur.

The boilermaker, as the classic combo is often called, has elbowed its way into dozens of bars where the bartenders know their aperitifs from their digestifs.

The Pour

Wine Lists That Respect a Budget

These 10 Manhattan restaurants offer good bottles without Champagne prices.

Restaurant Cocktails That Aim Too High

New restaurants in New York City are offering cocktail lists that are becoming more creative, and not in a good way.

How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

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Wines of The Times

Cornas Is No Country Bumpkin

Cornas in the northern Rhône Valley offers the rare combination of northern Rhône finesse combined with southern sun.

Fall Restaurant Preview

Restaurant Openings

A Tip Sheet for a Season of Surprises

Florence Fabricant lists the most interesting and important restaurants that will open soon.

Bar Openings

New Bars Offer Barrels, Beer and Boilermakers

This fall, rooftop, basement and vault are among the sites of the city’s new drinking dens.

Hotel Dining, Updated Chinese and More

Counting down the surprises in New York’s new crop of restaurants.

What to Watch For

Culinary Trends in New York

The hot dishes, drinks and other details to watch for in restaurants this fall.

INTERACTIVE MAP: New York Health Department Restaurant Ratings Map

Interactive map of health violations at restaurants in New York

101 Places to Find Great Coffee in New York

The number of serious coffee shops in New York has exploded. Enter your address to find the shops closest to you.

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