'21' Club
Daniel Krieger for The New York Times
The dimly lighted interior of “21.”
There are only a few things at “21” that one can order with any anticipation: the famous chicken hash, the “21” burger and the coconut cake, topped with a beehive of white meringue and toasted coconut. But to judge “21” as a restaurant is to miss the point of the place. Like Galatoire’s in New Orleans, “21” is at its best when you treat the food as a solid foundation for the liquid entertainment. Take note of the first question you are asked at the table. It is not an offer of still or sparkling, but: “Can I get you something to drink?” On a good night, everybody who works at “21” behaves like a bartender, and the meal sails along on a river of alcohol and high spirits. — Pete Wells
Price
$$$$. Cash Only and All Major Credit Cards
Atmosphere
A sepia-toned playpen for adults, with toys on the ceiling and martinis on the checked tablecloths.
Alcohol
Though expensive and larded with trophy wines, the cellar can also be eclectic and refreshingly undogmatic.
Open
Lunch: Tuesday to Friday, noon to 2:30 p.m. Dinner: Monday to Thursday, 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 11 p.m.
Sound Level
Civilized but not somnolent.
Wine List
Though expensive and larded with trophy wines, the cellar can also be eclectic and refreshingly undogmatic.
Reservations
Recommended
Wheelchair Access
A ramp leads down to the main entrance, which is on the same level with the dining room and accessible restrooms.
Recommended Dishes
Chicken hash, “21” burger, pommes soufflés, ahi tuna tartare, steak tartare, chocolate soufflé, coconut cake.
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