10 Downing
NO PRIME MINISTERS HERE The fare at 10 Downing in Greenwich Village leans toward dishes with a Mediterranean accent.
The triangle-shaped room has odd, clogged human traffic patterns. The din is excruciating. But the kitchen, run by the restless young chef Jason Neroni, turns out food that makes up for that. At 10 Downing Mr. Neroni's cooking is more complete and grounded than what he accomplished in the past at 71 Clinton Fresh Food and at Porchetta, both since closed. It's less flamboyant, and it focuses on getting the most from whatever a dish's centerpiece is. A fillet of merluza had the opulence of lobster. The roasted chicken was a study in tenderness and flavor. Don't miss the bang-for-buck assortment of charcuterie, and for dessert try the goat cheesecake with beet sorbet, which deploys familiar salad partners for an unfamiliar, sweeter mission. — Frank Bruni
Price
$$$. All Major Credit Cards
Atmosphere
A handsome triangle of space with big windows and the look and feel of a sleeker, glossier brasserie.
Alcohol
full bar
Recommended Dishes
Cured and smoked meat platter; marinated brussels sprouts; sunchoke soup; duck meatball cassoulet; squid ink agnolotti; brisket alla vaccinara; merluza; roasted chicken; beef cheeks; goat cheesecake; peanut butter and grape jam dessert.
Open
Every Day
Sound Level
Unforgiving.
Wine List
Accessibly priced, international and suitably comprehensive.
Reservations
Recommended
Wheelchair Access
Yes
Also Available
Takeout
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