Fill ‘er up: 5 local beer lovers on the greatness of growlers

Reusable growlers from local companies like Haus of Growlers provide an easy way to refill beer at local participating grocery stores. (Alexandra Olivia/ Special Contributor)

By Tina Danze

The hopping Texas craft beer scene has led some locals to change their beer-buying habits. They’re getting local brews to-go, straight from the tap, at growler filling stations.

With so many great Texas brews available on draft, many made within 100 miles of Dallas, buying local has never been more fun. Checking out what’s on tap is a weekly diversion for some craft beer fans. They favor filling reusable jugs called growlers over buying six-packs.

Some beer aficionados value the freshness of draft beer that they can enjoy at home; if it’s locally made, it’s probably the freshest in town, since it doesn’t travel far. Others are eager to bring home beers made by young, regional breweries that can’t afford to package their beers.

Then there are the adventurous types, who await the experimental styles or special brews that established breweries produce only for kegs and in limited quantities. Growler bars mark the release of these beers with keg-tappings — festive events, often with free brewery glasses and growler promotions that draw long lines of customers.

You don’t have to be a craft beer buff to be a part of the scene. The staffers at most growler bars are happy to help. Tell them what you like in a beer, and they’ll steer you to something you’ll enjoy, offering samples first.

We asked five growler bar regulars about their filling philosophy and favorite Texas craft beers. Read on for inspiration to try a new Texas brew, and to learn more about buying draft beer, to-go. For a brief primer, see our Growler 101 lesson here.


David Hale Smith samples beer at Craft & Growler, photographed September 26, 2014. (Evans Caglage/The Dallas Morning News)

Beer lover: David Hale Smith, literary agent and editor of the short-story anthology Dallas Noir

Why buy in growlers? It’s the experience — it gives you an opportunity to try something new, right out of the tap. You can taste three or four, and then choose something you want a lot of; and the person behind the counter knows the story behind the beers. I’ve always loved keg beer, and thought a good draft beer tastes better than beer out of a can. It tastes so fresh. And the cost is reasonable. Depending on where you buy it, you can fill a 64-ounce growler with craft beer for $8 to $11.

Go-to growlers: A 50/50, black, stainless steel, double-walled, 64-ounce, insulated growler; and two glass growlers.

Fills up: When there’s a limited release out, or a special keg tapping, or when going to someone’s house and I want to bring some beer to share.

Top tap picks include:

Pearl Snap Pils, Austin Beerworks, Austin (available year-round): It’s a session beer — low in alcohol — and a really good American-style pilsner. There’s a wonderful balance to it. You can definitely drink it by itself, but it’s also a go-to beer for pairing with all kinds of foods.

El Chingon IPA, Four Corners Brewing Co., Dallas (available year-round): It has a great hop nose and an almost fruity freshness. It’s such a flavorful beer and a good choice for someone who likes India pale ales. It’s fantastic paired with a good cheeseburger.

(512) Pecan Porter, (512) Brewing Co., Austin (available year-round): A lot of porters are rich and robust, but this one is milder. Rather than being a big, thick, chewy porter, it has a nutty richness and intense flavor, but it’s lighter in terms of weight and mouthfeel; it’s more drinkable. It’s delicious and complex. The pecan note adds something different — there’s a nutty sweetness to it.


Lindsay Swinson tastes a glass of beer at Craft & Growler, photographed September 26, 2014. (Evans Caglage/The Dallas Morning News)

Beer lover: Lindsay Swinson, certified cheese professional and assistant manager at the cheese department at Central Market on Lovers Lane

Why buy in growlers? I’m a bomber fan, so when I found out you could buy 32 or 64 ounces of new releases on tap, in to-go containers, I started buying in growlers. I like the convenience of getting draft beer to go, and I like getting new releases that aren’t available in bottles. I recently moved two blocks from Craft and Growler, so I can walk there.

Fills up: Once a week with my brother and always when I’m on vacation to cities that have awesome breweries with growler bars. I’ll bring back two 32-ounce growlers of beer that’s not in our market in my checked luggage on the plane.

Go-to growlers: Two 32-ounce glass growlers and a 1-pint ceramic growler.

Top tap picks include:

Legion Russian Imperial Stout, Community Beer Co., Dallas (limited release): It’s dark, earthy and roasty, with coffee and chocolate notes. It’s super-malty, heavy and really high in alcohol (10 percent). One little glass made me all warm and fuzzy. It needs something gigantic as a food pairing like red grilled meat or a rich washed-rind cheese.

Peticolas Great Scot! Scottish Ale, Peticolas Brewing Co., Dallas (limited release): The flavor reminded me of damp grass and a deep, musky, almost dried-cherry-like sweetness. It would be a great accompaniment to a real meat-and-potatoes meal. A braised leg of lamb and roasted turnips would be great. A good raw-milk cheddar would also do wonders with this brew.

Brunch Money Imperial Golden Stout, Armadillo Ale Works, Denton (special release): I’m pretty much a traditionalist when it comes to stout, so the color threw me off. Now I know that something called a golden stout exists — it’s the greatest experiment! It’s like breakfast — it smells like the stickiest maple syrup, and made with coffee and chocolate. It’s chocolaty, with bitter coffee notes and there’s something smoky. It goes down very smooth.

Numb Comfort, Deep Ellum Brewing Co., Dallas (spring seasonal): I have really been digging barleywine [style ales]. Deep Ellum’s Numb Comfort has been consistently great.


Kevin Reitz and his growlers at Lakewood Growler, photographed September 26, 2014. (Evans Caglage/The Dallas Morning News)

Beer lover: Kevin Reitz, owner of the Dallas branch of Griswold Home Care

Why buy in growlers? I think beer from draft tastes better than beer in cans and bottles — it seems to be fresher. Even though technology has improved for beer in cans and bottles, there are more variables introduced in the shipping process. Also, many local breweries aren’t canning or bottling, so buying it on tap is the only way to get their beers. Ninety percent of the beers I buy in growlers are from Texas, and 60 percent to 75 percent of what I buy is from the Dallas area.

Fills up: At least once a week. On Sundays I meet up with a group and bring a growler — two or three growlers if I’m bringing beer to share, so that there’s a variety. Whenever there’s something new, I go to Lakewood Growler. I go straight for a pint, and if I like it, I buy a growler of it. I don’t do flights; some beers suffer from the tasting order, so it’s not a good way to determine what I like. I usually reserve growler fills for stuff that’s more difficult to find.

Go-to growlers: Two 2-liter glass bulb growlers — they look like inverted light bulbs; and two 64-ounce glass jug growlers.

Top tap picks include:

Pretzel Stout, Martin House Brewing Co., Fort Worth (available year-round): I really enjoy stouts; they’re right up there with IPAs as my favorites. This stout is brewed with crushed-up pretzels. It adds a salty character to the beer that I’ve never had. This is a great cool-weather or fall beer.

Zythophile Series (a line of single-hop IPAs, each named for the hop variety used to make it), the Lone Pint Brewery, Magnolia (special releases): A zythophile is a beer lover and the name of this line of IPAs. If you want to try a good Texas IPA, give this series a try. Every one I’ve tried has been good. The Rakau Zythophile is an American-style IPA; it has a very citrusy and bright flavor and is a great summer beer. It’s not going to smack you in the face with hops, but it’s still very flavorful.

St. Arnold Endeavor, St. Arnold Brewing Co., Houston (available year-round): I’m a huge fan of double IPAs. I was looking for a Texas double that was consistently good and fell in love with this one two years ago. I always jump on it when it pops up at growler stations. From the tap, it’s absolutely phenomenal. One of the things I look for is consistency. Endeavor tastes the same every time; you know what you’re getting when you buy it.


Jay Frank tries a beer at Lakewood Growler, photographed September 26, 2014. (Evans Caglage/The Dallas Morning News)

Beer lover: Jay Frank, human factors engineer at Boeing

Why buy in growlers? One of the main reasons is the variety. I like trying new things, either new breweries, new styles or completely experimental beers. Typically, I buy things that I find interesting at the time I am at the [growler bar], or I’ll buy something from a brewery that I like and trust in a style that I might be craving. Last November, I made a pact with myself to buy only beers made in Texas for one year. For growlers, I only buy Texas beers that I can’t buy in bottles or cans. A lot of the smaller brewers don’t bottle or can.

Fills up: Once a week.

Go-to growlers: 64-ounce glass growlers that he used during his homebrewing days.

Top tap picks include:

Peticolas Velvet Hammer Imperial Red Ale, Peticolas Brewing Co., Dallas (available year-round): Although it’s a red ale, it could be consumed as a winter warmer because it has 9 percent alcohol, it’s very malty, and it makes you feel cozy sitting next to a fire.

Nightmare on 1st St. Imperial Pumpkin Ale, No Label Brewing Co., Katy (fall seasonal): It’s an experimental style. The pumpkin spices are just right — you get the aroma and sensory experience of pumpkin pie. It has good malt character and mild hops bitterness. It’s an imperial ale, so it’s 9.7 percent alcohol. I like it for the season — it’s a good fall and winter beer, even if it’s not cold in Dallas.

Boom Summer Blonde, Panther Island Brewing, Fort Worth (available year-round): I’m new to this beer. It’s marketed as a summer session beer, and it’s pretty good at that. It’s quite tasty, and well-balanced between the hops and the malt. It has a nice golden color, and good mouth-feel for a light-bodied beer.


Aaron Kelley and his growler at Lakewood Growler, photographed September 26, 2014. (Evans Caglage/The Dallas Morning News)

Beer lover: Aaron Kelley, music composer and producer

Why buy in growlers? Mainly because beer right off the tap tastes better than bottled and canned beer, and you can get things on tap that you can’t get in bottles or cans. And you are able to see what you like before you buy it. Also, I’d rather give local businesses my money.

Fills up: Once or twice a week, and when there are special keg tappings for favorite beer styles.

Go-to growlers: Two large (64-ounce) and two medium (32-ounce) glass growlers.

 

Top tap picks include:

Adelbert’s Tripel B Belgian Style Tripel, Adelbert’s Brewery, Austin (available year-round): When I find Texas craft beers that are authentic to the European-Old World styles, I tend to gravitate to them. I’ve always liked Belgian ales, and this beer is a really good example of the style. I like the bright herby flavor, carbonation and higher alcohol content of Belgian style ales.

DFW: A Collaboration of Two Breweries, Belgian-Inspired Dubbel Ale; Rahr & Sons Brewing Co. of Fort Worth and Lakewood Brewing Co. of Garland (due out in October): I’m looking forward to trying this beer. I like both of those breweries, and I’m interested in seeing what they do with the Belgian-style.

Lakewood French Quarter Temptress, Imperial Milk Stout, Lakewood Brewing Co. of Garland (limited release): I like Lakewood’s regular Temptress anyway — it’s an excellent stout with good chocolaty, milky notes. With this particular one, they’ve incorporated coffee grounds in the brewing process; it lends a coffee bitterness and depth of flavor. They use one of my favorite coffees — it’s from Noble Coyote, a local coffee brewer. I think Dale over at Lakewood Growler has held back a keg or two.


Where to fill growlers

Texas law allows bars with beer retail permits that don’t sell hard liquor to sell beer to-go in closed containers. That means you can enjoy a pint at the bar or take home a jug to enjoy later; many customers do both, making the atmosphere a cross between the neighborhood bar and the corner store. Tap lists change often. Most growler bars post the tap rotation weekly on their websites. Prices are cheaper for growler fills than for on-premises consumption, the average starting price for 64 ounces is about $9; special brews can cost as much as $25.

Here’s a look at Dallas-area spots where you can choose from a large selection of beers. Not listed are restaurants that have a very limited number of tap beers available for growler fills.

Craft & Growler (pictured) has a patent pending filling system pressurized with carbon oxide to fill growler bottom-up. Other venues attached plastic tubs to the taps. (Evans Caglage/The Dallas Morning News)

The Bottle Shop
2116 Greenville Ave. 214-828-2873. wbcbottleshop.com.

This cozy bar, recently named one of the best craft beer bars in D-FW, offers about 22 draft beers from near and far. Lately, the bar has featured about 10 Texas beers on tap. Rare, limited-release kegs are aged in the back room and offered on tap periodically.

Craft and Growler
3601 Parry Ave. 214-821-1122. craftandgrowler.com.

This spacious bar and store across from Fair Park is the biggest growler-fill depot, with 42 taps; about 75 percent of them are dedicated to Texas beers. Beer is dispensed using a modified Blichmann beer gun that the owners are patenting. Before shooting in the beer, the gun injects carbon dioxide to eliminate air from the growler and form a protective barrier on top of the beer. The store also offers the widest variety of glass, stainless steel and ceramic growlers of any filling station. Craft & Growler was recently named one of the best craft beer bars in D-FW.

Note: Due to parking issues related to the State Fair of Texas, the store and bar will be closed through October 12.

Lakewood Growler
6448 E. Mockingbird Lane. 214-584-6253. lakewoodgrowler.com.

This East Dallas neighborhood hot spot dedicates all 36 of its taps to Texas beers, with an emphasis on North Texas breweries. The staff primes growlers with carbon dioxide to eliminate the air, enabling the beer to stay fresher longer.

Luck
3011 Gulden Lane, Suite 112. 469-250-0679. luckdallas.com.

This gastropub in Trinity Groves, recently named on of the area’s best craft beer bars, offers growler fill service at the bar, and you don’t have to dine there to take advantage of it. Choose from more than 40 local craft beers, all made within 75 miles of Dallas. Prices are a little higher here, but this bar boasts the most comprehensive selection of Dallas-area beers.

Whole Foods Market
Lakewood, Highland Park, Park Lane, Addison and Colleyville locations; wholefoodsmarket.com.

Whole Foods Market pioneered the growler movement in Dallas with its Lakewood store in 2011. Since then, it has expanded growler service to four other locations. Each store determines its rotating selection of beers from all over, and usually dedicates a few taps to Texas beer. The Park Lane and Addison locations have the most beers on tap — 19 and 17, respectively. The Lakewood and Highland Park stores have seven and eight taps, respectively. The newest location, in Colleyville, has 16 taps. Although the Texas selections are more limited than at larger filling stations, the supermarket makes a convenient stop for both groceries and a growler fill.

Tina Danze is a freelance writer. Follow her on Twitter at @TinaDanze.

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